The Seychelles – You Simply Have to Experience Them

When we landed on Mahé after the 10-hour flight, I could hardly believe that we were actually in the Seychelles. THE SEYCHELLES! We had often heard beforehand that it was a luxury destination. Hmm... ‘What would we find there?’ I asked myself this question again and again. The very first thing that greeted us was the humid, sweet air that hits you as soon as you walk down the aircraft steps. A dream. Even at the airport, I already knew that we were going to feel very much at home here.

The Seychellois are very friendly people, and I think this genuine friendliness is due in no small part to the fact that thousands of tourists do NOT descend on the islands every day. On the way to our hotel, our driver gave us sooo many tips about what we absolutely had to do and see. After a drive of around 25 minutes, we arrived at the Double Tree by Hilton - Allamanda Resort & Spa, and the view of the Indian Ocean from the lobby was indescribably beautiful. Your eyes can barely take in these colours, which was true throughout the drive, incidentally. I have rarely seen such lush greenery. Anse Forbans, where the hotel is located, is a truly superb and beautiful beach, even though the sand is not particularly fine everywhere.

Reef shoes are essential here, especially for swimming and snorkelling. For one thing, in September we had a lovely breeze and a correspondingly rough Indian Ocean. Although the reef breaks the very highest waves, at high tide the swell still washes up quite a lot of sharp stones and coral, which the ocean does not always take back out again. And stepping on them is painful. There are also plenty of small and large sea urchins that seem to feel very much at home here. Even so, it is an absolutely beautiful beach, and the stones washed ashore meant that it looked different every day. We hired a car for the entire stay, which was just as essential as reef shoes. On our very first afternoon, we set off to explore a little of the island. It was Saturday, and what we did not know was that the Seychelles probably has some of the most employee-friendly working conditions anywhere. At least where shops and their opening hours are concerned. The large supermarkets close at 14.00. Well, there are not that many of them anyway, but at first it felt rather strange that not everything stayed open until all hours, seven days a week, as you might be used to in Asia, for example. But you get used to it and plan around it, and in some ways it is really lovely, because that also seems to be one of the reasons why people there are simply so content. You just have to manage for a couple of days, and the owners of the little kiosks up in the hills know that tourists have no option but to shop with them between 14.00 on Saturday and Monday morning. So our first ‘treat’ in the Seychelles was a packet of luxury biscuits, at least as far as the price was concerned (perhaps that is what they mean by a luxury destination? ;-)) The packet was rather dusty. But we were so hungry that it simply had to be done, and we did not know when, or even if, we would come across a restaurant or anything similar. So we drove right across the island to take in as much as possible and get our first impressions. With a destination like this, even on your first day you somehow worry that you might miss something or accidentally overlook something. We passed the most beautiful beaches we had ever seen up to that point. Everywhere, local people were celebrating the weekend and life itself. Every beach, every bay and every corner smelled of grilled fish and meat, all accompanied by fantastic music from car radios or portable stereos people had brought along. Absolutely brilliant. Simply wonderful. The whole atmosphere was priceless, and we loved driving past it all, taking in the scents and the sights.

I cannot even name some of the beaches, but I think that setting off into the more or less unknown is precisely what makes it so appealing. Wherever we go, we tend simply to set off and see where the road takes us. I did manage to find out a few names, though. We visited the beautiful Anse Bazarca.

Wow, the waves there were incredible. Amazing!!! A little further on, we reached Petite Police and had the place to ourselves. COMPLETELY TO OURSELVES. Just like at almost every beach in the Seychelles.

Or at least that is what we thought. In the bushes, a local man was chopping and cutting up palm leaves. It felt a little unsettling at first, but if you approach people in a friendly way, even the man with the machete will say hello ;-) We had a brief chat with him and then enjoyed this beautiful beach. There were just as many beautiful beaches along the route from the Allamanda Resort to Victoria, and if you drive along Cap Ternay Road, you will also find beaches where you simply have to stop and soak up the atmosphere.

In the evenings, we always drove to Kaz Kreol for dinner. It is a cosy beach restaurant serving pizza, pasta, Creole dishes and Chinese food.

Unfortunately, ‘Surfers’, which we had to pass every time we drove to Kaz Kreol, was closed throughout our stay. What a shame. As prices in the Seychelles are high, every few days we stocked up at the supermarket in Victoria, so on some days we had a 5-minute noodle pot and a filled roll instead. After a while, we had more or less worked our way through the entire menu at Kaz Kreol anyway. But the food was always absolutely delicious. We can highly recommend the supermarket in Victoria, by the way. We love experiencing everyday life in the countries we visit, and the supermarket is one of the places where that begins. It is also simply wonderful to browse, buy and try different products, especially ones that are completely unfamiliar to us. If you wish, you can buy freshly caught fish by the roadside every day. There is no need to be wary, even if, to us Europeans, it may seem strange to see the fish lying there in the sun. Victoria has a large covered market where you can also buy all kinds of fruit, vegetables, spices and fish.

AND... those spiders are everywhere. Palm spiders. They are the largest spiders I have ever seen. Phew. Walking underneath them is quite a challenge. They are found throughout the Seychelles, but in this market hall they hang directly above your head and seem perfectly at home there. Still, I never saw one move. So everything was (almost) fine ;-)

So, on Mahé, a car is a MUST! Driving on the left is manageable and fairly easy to get used to, provided you do not feel the need to be the fastest and strongest on the road. The Seychellois could probably drive these roads blindfolded, and there is no way we could learn to do that so quickly. So indicate, pull over to the left and wave the driver behind you past. You will usually receive a warm thank-you in return. There are deep drainage ditches along the roadside, which are another good reason to drive carefully. There is also very little street lighting, and it feels as though everyone drives with their full beams on all the time, which is extremely dazzling in the dark. So always drive carefully, but do not be afraid. It is wonderful to drive along the coast, take in the colours of the island and the sea, and stop whenever you feel like it.

Of course, we did not only want to explore Mahé, but at least Praslin and La Digue as well. As I had read a few horror stories about the rough seas, we decided to take an Air Seychelles domestic flight. We flew from Mahé to Praslin. It was twice as expensive as the ferry, but also much more adventurous. We would have regretted it if we had not done it. The little aircraft alone was a highlight, and then there was the view from the window. The pictures speak for themselves.

Highly recommended. The flight took 15 minutes, but we could happily have carried on flying for ages. We then took the ferry from Praslin to La Digue, which I also found rather fun. However, I really must say that the stories are not exaggerated. The Indian Ocean can be quite rough in September, and I had read that the Praslin–La Digue–Praslin crossing was not supposed to be too bad. It was not too bad in itself, but if you are prone to seasickness and would have to endure it for a good hour from Mahé to Praslin, I would definitely recommend flying. That way, you get to experience everything, which certainly has its advantages. On Praslin, we had a very funny taxi driver called Selbie, who took us from the airport to Anse Lazio, then to Vallée de Mai National Park and from there to the ferry terminal. On La Digue, we then travelled by bicycle – how else?

While driving across the island with Selbie, we could already see that it was somehow completely different from Mahé. Not better or worse. Just different. We arrived at Anse Lazio very early in the morning. There was not another person there. Just a few catamarans anchored offshore, with tiny, gentle waves rolling in. The peace was unique and indescribable.

We then continued to Vallée de Mai National Park. Mosquito repellent is the top priority. Honestly... those mosquitoes find every single patch you have missed. But the national park, with its incredible variety of plants, palms and trees, is simply breathtaking. This is where the world-famous Coco de Mer grows. One of nature’s many wonders. The palms are so tall and dense that you can barely see where they end. Unfortunately, we did not spot a black parrot, but that was not too disappointing. That is simply nature.

We could hear them, though ;-) It is like an enchanted forest, and you feel as if you have been abandoned in the depths of the jungle. While we were there, it began to rain. That, too, is nature, and it was indescribably beautiful to hear the rain pattering on the huge leaves and to watch the plants drinking it in. The water trickled down the stems and leaves of the plants all the way to the ground. We found it fascinating.

When you arrive on La Digue, you feel a little lost for the first few metres, until you see all the bicycles. We did not hire the first ones we came across, but walked a little further before renting two bikes. It was such a cool feeling to have your own bicycle for a while, whizzing around the island and knowing that it was more or less the only way to get about. There are now a few small cars and lorries on the island as well. We stayed in a chalet at the Fleur de Lys hotel. It is a truly lovely little bungalow complex, run with great care. In the morning, you slide open the door and breakfast is served on your terrace. You share breakfast with the resident hens and their chicks, Madagascar doves, Madagascar fodies and common mynas, all giving their finest performances. Wonderful!!! All right, the hens were clucking away amusingly, but it really was a unique experience to have breakfast surrounded by so many different animals and to share it with them.

We visited several beaches and, of course, the world-famous Anse Source d’Argent.

Contrary to our expectations, it was not hopelessly overcrowded either. However, the weather conditions were not ideal for seeing it at its very best. We could only imagine HOW beautiful it must be when the final rays of the day transform it into a pink-and-orange dreamland. Even so, it completely captivated us, and we simply could not stop marvelling at it. It is unquestionably one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, and precisely because it lies on an island that is not overrun with tourists, it will hopefully always remain this beautiful.

If you enjoy souvenir shopping, make sure you visit the shop by the harbour on La Digue. We did not find another souvenir shop anywhere with a better selection. You still only get the usual bits and pieces, but never mind. Even a small leather bracelet has special meaning when you buy it on La Digue.

Possibly one of the most wonderful moments we have experienced on any of our travels so far was coming across a tortoise while cycling. Just like that. We had already seen several, but always in captivity. And suddenly, there it was! By the side of the path, contentedly munching on a few leaves that a couple cycling ahead of us had left for it. We brought it a few more, took some pictures and simply savoured the moment, with goosebumps that would not go away. It was a feeling that simply cannot be put into words.

The two hotels are fundamentally different, and I do not wish to compare them. The Allamanda Resort is a gem on Mahé. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay. Every room has a sea view and an enormous terrace furnished with a table, 2 chairs and a large double sun lounger. There are also rooms with a Jacuzzi, but I cannot comment on those. The fact is, however, that when you have such a beautiful ocean right on your doorstep and a large pool with direct sea views, I do not think you need a room with a Jacuzzi. But of course, everyone must decide that for themselves. The rooms are very spacious, and the bed is exceptionally comfortable. When you first open your eyes in the morning, you look straight out to sea. The staff are extremely friendly, with one or two exceptions, but I suppose that is something you simply have to deal with from time to time. Having breakfast while listening to the waves breaking is an absolute delight, and the doors are only closed when it is raining heavily or stormy. There were fresh juices and plenty of fruit every day, and the buffet had something for everyone. All in all, we loved coming ‘home’ after a long day of exploring. Thank you to the entire team for such a lovely stay, and also to Carolina, the friendly Spanish resort manager, who was always up for an amusing chat.

I already described Fleur de Lys in the section on La Digue. We both agree that we would happily stay there again. You could not ask for more peace and relaxation. Our thanks also go to the entire team, who look after their guests so well and keep the property so beautifully natural and well maintained.

The Seychelles are already a luxurious destination in the sense that there simply is no mass tourism. That is probably one of the reasons why the islands have such a special status. The prices of food and other incidental expenses cannot be compared with those in places such as South-East Asia. They are considerably higher, and we spent around €50 each day on drinks, eating out in the evening and sometimes at lunchtime, as well as small sweet treats in between. Depending on what we ordered, this sometimes rose to around €80. However, if you know this in advance and check your budget, you can decide whether you would prefer to book more affordable self-catering accommodation and cook for yourself or eat out as you please, or whether you would rather stay at a resort with breakfast, half board or full board included. Personally, we love getting to know the people and their culture, including the local cuisine, and would never book more than a hotel with breakfast. Getting up in the morning and sitting down at a table where everything has already been prepared is a little luxury we enjoy. What happens during the rest of the day can then vary. Supermarket or restaurant. Anything is possible.

You can explore the Seychelles quite well in 16 days, as everything is very small. For us, it was exactly right to explore Mahé first and then take a trip to Praslin and La Digue after a few days. Of course, you could easily allow a few more days for Praslin, but we saw and experienced so much in the short time we were there that we are not at all disappointed that we did not stay longer. However, there are many other islands in the archipelago that greatly interest us and that we did not manage to visit.

The Seychellois are very friendly people. You simply need to be a little open-minded to understand certain things and approach people warmly. They will be equally friendly in return, and you can have some lovely conversations.

A car on Mahé is a MUST! It gives you independence, and it is the only way to see what you genuinely want to see, as well as whatever you happen to come across. See the islands from above. Another must! Go shopping in a supermarket and soak up the hustle and bustle! Stroke a tortoise! DO NOT KNOCK! Meet the locals! Take walks along the beach! Go snorkelling!

There are probably plenty of other things you must, might or should do, but all we can say is that the Seychelles are a true island paradise. We enjoyed every moment, from the first to the last, and we will return one day.