“50 Things to Do Before Turning 50”: Seychelles!

A peaceful 20-minute flight over tiny islands in a 12-seater plane, with crystal-clear sea below and a rainbow on the horizon... then torrential rain as we landed (we ladies from Varese were prepared, unlike some of the others!). Our pre-booked taxi took 10 minutes to reach Le Relax St. Joseph at Grand Anse. The room was standard but genuinely spacious and clean, with a veranda overlooking a tropical garden, 100 m from the beach. The owner was friendly and helpful; French and English were spoken everywhere, and there were a few Italians around.

After a nap and a snack on the veranda, it was raining again (but still just as warm)! Our first swim was spectacular: a long white beach lined with palm trees, in front of the affiliated restaurant with its swimming pool, and wonderfully warm water. We walked and relaxed until sunset, at around 18.00... and took our first hundred photos.

Dinner in our sarongs at the beachfront restaurant (€15.00 for all the fish pasta we could eat). There were few tourists at that time of year... We walked back alone in the dark, with a Boy Scout-style torch, through palm groves and absolute silence. There were only a few cars on the main road (driving on the left), while the lane inland had local houses and a little shop selling everything under the sun, open until 22.00. We were suffering from Wi-Fi withdrawal — a hard habit to break! — so we bought a SIM card for a week for around €10.

After a generous breakfast by the beach, served by helpful staff, we arranged a trip to Curieuse. We set off with 10 other people in a comfortable boat with a multilingual guide (€90), passing the most famous beaches, Anse Lazio and Anse Georgette.

My dream came true: paradise really does exist. The island is a nature reserve with around 300 giant tortoises, playing and eating from our hands. This would be my most treasured memory of the holiday — what an experience!!!

We crossed the island on foot in 45 minutes and joined other groups for lunch: an excellent spread of fish and meat, small juicy bananas and drinks included.

As much swimming and as many photos as we liked, with a picture-postcard beach and white seabed (do not forget sun cream and a hat!).

We then went snorkelling off Robinson Island, a small green atoll: colourful fish, although sadly the coral had lost its colour.

We returned towards evening, saying goodbye to new friends whom we would meet again later on our tour and enjoying another sunset. We arranged dinner in the nearby centre, about half an hour away on foot with our torch. There were a few little shops, elegant hotels generally offering half board, and a little nightlife with restaurants and bars.

Day three: we took a local bus (€0.50) to Vallée de Mai (€20), with mangroves and Coco de Mer palms galore. In the afternoon, we continued our search for more beaches and hired a sunlounger on Côte d’Or (the beaches are not generally equipped with facilities, apart from those belonging to hotels): Kindle and sunshine until sunset! We had an aperitif and an incredibly generous dinner (€35) on the beach, at an elegant restaurant (with us in our sarongs), accompanied by local music, then returned by taxi (€20).

We set off in our second deluge and arrived on La Digue at Chez Marston, Anse La Reunion, one of the oldest guest houses. The owner was ‘original’, to say the least, while Jacinta was always helpful! Our room was small but clean. Armed with an umbrella and waterproof jackets, we explored the centre of La Passe, with its shops and bars, bicycles and mules (lots of them), and very few cars, all electric. We had dinner at the guest house with plenty of other tourists, drawn by its renowned cuisine. The service was friendly and moved at a leisurely pace, which we soon learnt to appreciate. Wi-Fi was included, so we sent our evening photos and caught up with a world that already seemed very far away!

We hired bicycles (€10) and reached the park in 10 minutes (€6 admission). It is home to the famous Anse de Source d’ Argent, which I would say is the most beautiful beach of all, with smooth rocks shaped by the wind and centuries, and dazzling white sand. We enjoyed a fresh coconut cut open on the spot and plenty of sunshine.

A rather risqué interlude among the tortoises... In their natural habitat, they mate loudly and shamelessly all day long! Come to think of it, perhaps this was the real highlight of the holiday...

The park has vanilla plantations and farmers’ cottages, and offers a lovely ride with a few small uphill stretches to reach another fabulous beach, Petite Anse. It was windy and the sea was rough (take care when swimming!), but the scenery was unforgettable! After a snack at the kiosk, we reached another part of the island in around half an hour, moving between palm-fringed beaches and enchanting little corners.

We did it all again the next day — what a shame we only had 2 days!!!

We never seemed to have much luck on travel days: another deluge on the way to Mahé, and although the ferry was comfortable, the air conditioning was on full blast!

We arrived at Bord Mer Villa at Beau Vallon, right opposite the sea. It was a colonial-style property made up of small villas, and our beautiful room had a kitchenette and a little balcony where we could have breakfast. We had dinner at the nearby Boat House, with a buffet and music.

We spent Sunday on the busy beach among the locals: a celebration for everyone, with traditional street food, tourist stalls and local markets, plenty of sunshine, swimming, and walks along the beach and among the hotels! After several quiet days, we felt a little overwhelmed by the cars and all the people enjoying their day out, but everyone was friendly, never intrusive, cheerful and carefree, with lots of children around. Dinner on a veranda by the sea... absolute relaxation!

We walked north for about an hour and found elegant villas for locals and tourists, hotels and exclusive resorts, some still decorated for weddings and luxurious receptions, as well as bars and seafront swimming pools. It was a different type of holiday — and a very popular one — all about luxury and relaxation.

We hired 2 sunloungers for €10 and treated ourselves to a full day on the private beach at the Sunrise Beach Hotel, with a palm tree as our parasol, a bar on the rocks and a reef full of little fish for snorkelling. We ended on a high with a local Indian/Creole dinner!

On our final morning, we took the bus with local commuters and reached Victoria in 15 minutes. We toured the local market and souvenir shops (tea, spices and tortoises everywhere), visited the Hindu temple and saw the Clock Tower (which you can safely skip!), then wandered through narrow, crowded streets filled with the colour of everyday life.

One last swim before packing our bags... then it was time to leave, with a tear in each eye as we thought of the tortoises we were leaving behind in their paradise!

This is definitely a holiday we would recommend for any budget, given the wide range of options available!!! We preferred an affordable multi-centre itinerary so that we could see more islands, choosing mid-priced accommodation and restaurants, with a kettle and fridge in the room just in case, plus day excursions.

Our transfers were arranged in advance through SeyVillas, and we were genuinely delighted with the service: assistance, courtesy and punctuality beyond all expectations! We also used local buses and taxis to experience the islands less like tourists.

We were captivated by the spectacle of nature, still so unspoilt, and by a style of tourism that does not disrupt local life. It is ideal for anyone wishing to combine sea, sunshine and relaxation with energetic walks or cycle rides, while experiencing a simple, welcoming and peaceful culture!

Our rating for the trip: 10 out of 10 with honours!