Christmas in the Seychelles
For a long time, we had wanted to escape to the sunshine in winter when the cold sets in at home.
The Seychelles are a dream destination, and now we just had to organise the trip. While searching online for a house, we came across SeyVillas and easily found accommodation on the different islands we had chosen.
The long-awaited departure day finally arrived. When we landed at Mahé airport, the representatives from Créole met us and took us by minibus to the port in Victoria. After hours on the plane and in airports, we thought the crossing to La Digue would be a mere formality. We were wrong! We boarded the Cat Coco, the fast inter-island ferry. Perhaps it was the tiredness or the waves, but whatever the reason, we arrived on La Digue looking rather green around the gills. The taxi dropped us off at Zerof Guesthouse. The lady was very apologetic because our house for four would not be available until the following day, so for that evening we stayed in two interconnecting apartments for two. They were even more spacious, and the girls were delighted. Famished, we found a pizzeria just a stone’s throw away and devoured a Yellow House, the pineapple pizza. Good night.
After a well-earned rest, we saw our surroundings in daylight. It was magnificent! The staff settled us into our house, which was immaculate, and the holiday could begin. Francine from the Créole agency came by to make sure everything was going well. She recommended a bicycle hire company that might give us a small discount if we mentioned her name. By early afternoon, we were astride our trusty steeds and heading towards Grand Anse. The narrow road wound through lush jungle dotted with granite boulders of every size. A few climbs and descents later – yes, it is certainly not flat – a picture-postcard scene opened up before us: white sand, turquoise water, coconut palms and, to top it all off, a deserted beach.
For a week, we explored the island from end to end by bicycle. There were hardly any cars, which was wonderful. Each beach was more beautiful than the last. The spectacle was not only on the sand but also beneath the water: with just a mask and snorkel, it was magical. Multicoloured fish, coral and rays – it felt as though we were swimming in an aquarium.
We also ventured into the forest to reach Nid d’Aigle, the highest point on the island. You certainly have to earn it, with an elevation gain of around 300 metres over just a few kilometres. It is steep! The scenery made it worthwhile, with panoramic views of the neighbouring islands, including Praslin. There were even ‘French plums’ to quench our thirst, a small wild fruit with a very sweet flavour. Were the red ones better than the white ones? Opinions were divided.
One afternoon, I went to buy a few groceries. When I came out, I collected my mountain bike, but after a while I had the distinct impression that it was not actually mine. There are hundreds of hire bicycles, and many of them are identical, so there must have been a mix-up. I was embarrassed; Mr Quick, the bicycle hire man, was not going to be pleased. The next day, as I passed the supermarket again, I recognised my bicycle because the back of the saddle had a few marks from wear. So I swapped them back. What a relief – everything was sorted out.
It was funny: we were in the tropics, yet there were Christmas decorations everywhere. We also kept hearing New Year songs in every possible style: reggae, classical, zouk, ragga and even rap. Quite something.
And as it happened, today was Christmas Day! Everyone was smartly dressed to go and sing at church, while we opted to relax at Anse Caïman.
A good sandwich, fruit and fresh pastries made a change from turkey. You may be thinking that Christmas without presents sounds rather sad, but ours appeared in the form of turtles that came to join us during our ‘Christmas snorkelling’. It was simply magical.
We also saw tortoises in the nature park. These were land tortoises, more than a century old and enormous. The park also provides access to a vanilla plantation and a traditional coconut oil workshop, complete with an ox-powered press, as well as the famous house where the film Emmanuelle was shot. It is also the access point for Anse Source d'Argent, the jewel of the island, where the sunset tinges the rocks red. It was beautiful enough to bring a tear to your eye.
We almost felt like crying when it was time to leave La Digue. It is such a small island that, after a week, you keep bumping into the same people. You greet one another and stop for a chat; in short, it begins to feel like home.
After another short trip on the Cat Coco, we were back on Mahé. A minibus took us to the marina at Eden Island, where Jerry collected us in his small boat and took us to Cerf Island.
After around 15 minutes on the water, we arrived at the jetty of L’Habitation hotel, where a small motorboat dropped us off at the foot of our villa, Fortresse.
The couple looking after the house showed us around. ‘Do you like it?’ Our eyes were shining, but we were lost for words. No wonder – we had never seen anything like it!
The house sits on its own rock right at the water’s edge and can only be reached from the beach, or by boat at high tide. On tiered terraces shaped around the rocks, there is a swimming pool, a hot tub and a barbecue area. The interior has been decorated with great care, feels warm and welcoming, and lacks nothing. There was even enough food for our first evening, which was a thoughtful touch. There are no shops at all on Cerf, but fortunately Jerry operates a shuttle for grocery trips. Canoes are also provided, and we used them to paddle around the island and reach the snorkelling spots. In the evenings, as the tide came in, spotted eagle rays circled in front of the house with the tips of their wings breaking the surface. A few small leopard sharks also came to visit us.
What superlative could I possibly use that I had not already mentioned? We spent four timeless days there.
Then it was time to move on again. Jerry took us back to Mahé, and we headed for Le Domaine de Bocava. The property is located at Pointe au Sel in the south of the island. Once we had settled in, Marylise, our host, asked whether we had eaten. She fancied a pizza and offered to take us along if we were interested. That was kind of her, so off we went to Case Créole, a lovely restaurant beside Anse Royale, one of Mahé’s must-see beaches.
Among other things, we learnt that the property’s name came from the crops once grown there: BAnanas, COconuts and VAnilla.
During our final few days, we visited Victoria, the Seychelles’ tiny capital, with its charming covered market. We happened to visit on the last day of 2015, in sweltering heat. Entertainment had been organised for the evening, but we were exhausted. A small Takamaka aperitif – Seychellois rum – for the adults, a light meal, midnight, Happy New Year, then bed.
Our journey ended with a full day at Anse Intendance. The bus ride gave us a glimpse of the island’s interior. Tata buses are a typical, rustic and very inexpensive way to travel around Mahé, with tickets costing 5 rupees. Be warned, however: the drivers are fearless, and they go fast!
And that was it. It was time to pack our suitcases. Everything had gone smoothly, and the entire trip had been pure joy! One thing was certain: we already wanted to return.
Franck
