A Corner of Paradise

First of all, we chose this island because we prefer peace and quiet, adventure and doing things independently, so here we found our paradise: the perfect mix of relaxation and dream beaches, but with a touch of wilderness, without being waited on hand and foot as you might be in a hotel. This was our first reaction: can this all be real??? After a good 13 hours of travelling by plane and ferry, with flawless connections, we finally arrived at the port of La Passe at 19:00, where a gentleman from the ‘Creole’ company drove us in a small van to our little villa, “Oceane l’Union Villa”. Just two words to describe it: a dream.

On the first day, we had a chance to settle in and understand the pace of life and local customs. On this island, you only get around by bicycle or on foot. It is important to remember that they drive on the left, as in Britain (after the first day, it will feel as though you have always travelled on the left-hand side of the road). We decided to hire two bicycles so that we could explore the whole island, as it measures just 3 × 5 km and takes around 30 minutes to get from one side to the other. There are only two main roads: one goes almost all the way around the island, although it comes to an end near Anse Coco, where you have to continue on foot through the forest along a fairly challenging trail. The other cuts through the centre of the island and leads to the top of the mountain, Nid d’Aigles. You could perhaps stop at ‘Belle Vue’, a bar and restaurant overlooking the sea and forest. In the evening, it also serves an exquisite set dinner featuring the day’s menu for just 600 rupees for two people. There are so many fish, vegetable and chicken dishes that the meal seems as though it has been prepared for an entire regiment, and everything is delicious. The climb is a little tiring, but the views awaiting you make it all worthwhile.

We went up in the late afternoon and stayed until around 21:30, by which time it was pitch-black outside. We could have taken advantage of the shuttle back down, but as we had a torch with us, we preferred to walk along the forest trails beneath the starry sky of the other hemisphere (a sky so enchanting that you could stay awake all night just gazing at it). When would we ever have another opportunity like that?? Knowing there are no venomous animals, we felt fairly relaxed. At most, you might come across the giant Seychelles spiders (if you are frightened of spiders, they can look intimidating because they are as large as a hand, but fortunately they are completely harmless), a few cockroaches and the beautiful flying foxes. Unlike our bats, they do not only come out at night: if you look up, you can see them flying even in broad daylight. If you would like to visit this island, I recommend bringing a torch, because when night falls, it really is dark. It is so dark that you cannot see an inch in front of your face. There are street lamps only around the centre of the little village of La Passe; elsewhere, if you cycle in the evening, you risk crashing at any moment, so I would say a torch is essential. As soon as the sun sets, it is immediately dark. The only other means of transport are a few small vans with special permits that take visitors to their accommodation, and taxis… which are actually beautiful ox-drawn carts.

Living according to the island’s rhythm for a week takes you away from reality and makes you realise that you can manage perfectly well without your computer, mobile phone, television, internet and so on. You can do without everything, because everything you need to feel content is right there—nothing more, nothing less. During our stay, we had some wonderful encounters with the local wildlife: giant tortoises in the most remote corners, reaching towards your hands for a stroke or hoping you might give them something to eat; red canaries adding splashes of colour and liveliness amid the green forest, incredibly difficult to photograph, but once you manage it, you cannot believe that nature could have created such beauty. There were also lots and lots of bright green geckos camouflaged among the banana leaves, not to mention the white paradise flycatcher… the name says it all!

The island is full of dogs ‘without owners’—or rather, dogs that belong to everyone. If they take a liking to you, they will follow you everywhere for much of the day. Many people are afraid of these dogs because they think they are strays, but I can assure you that they are very gentle and are only looking for a little affection and someone to run around with. We met one in particular who stayed in our hearts. He joined us on the beach, played with the crabs, dug enormous holes and brought you half a coconut so that you could throw it for him. He had become ‘our dog’ in a way, barking at anyone who came near us. If I had been able to, I would have taken him home with me.

Before leaving, we booked an excursion to Coco, Sister and Felicité Island with Jonathan. We spent a wonderful day in his company. He took us snorkelling early in the morning, so we arrived before any other boats and could watch enormous shoals of colourful fish, each more beautiful than the last. Fortunately, we had gorgeous weather, so we were able to admire a fantastic coral reef… It was our first time snorkelling, and as soon as I put my head underwater, the emotion almost took my breath away. That day, it was just the two of us on the excursion, so on the way back Jonathan prepared a delicious barbecue for us on the beach, with freshly caught jackfish cooked over coconut wood—the best fish I have ever eaten!!! I like the way they avoid wasting food: they serve you a small portion and, if that is enough, fine; otherwise, you go back with your plate and they give you some more. You can then take whatever is left home and eat it whenever you like.

While exploring the island, we were lucky enough to meet and become friends with a local young man who ran a little stall selling fresh fruit and smoothies. We went back every day for an afternoon snack, and alongside our ‘mixed fruit juice’ (the smoothies we know at home simply cannot compare), he would offer us a plate of coconut, star fruit, lime, banana and passion fruit. He always sat with us, so we could chat about this and that while learning new words and traditions from each other’s cultures. On our final day, we stopped by to say goodbye and ordered our usual. As he did not have enough change in rupees, he made it up to us with a basket full of freshly picked fruit, which gave us a fantastic breakfast the following morning. Thanks to him, we discovered that the fruit is not filled with pesticides and chemicals as it is back home; they do not even know what such chemicals are. Anyone can pick whatever they like, wherever they like. Even the most ordinary fruits, such as bananas or passion fruit, taste much fresher and more natural when eaten in their true habitat. They are incredibly sweet.

Now we come to the most difficult part to describe: the beaches… what can I say, except that they are all absolutely beautiful?!? Bear in mind that those on the east coast are very windy and therefore dangerous for swimming, while those on the west coast have much shallower, calmer waters, perfect for snorkelling.*

Each beach has its own distinctive character, but all have brilliant white sand dotted with red fragments of coral and crystal-clear water, and they are all equally beautiful, unspoilt and uncrowded. Even though it was August, we never met anyone on the beaches. Only Anse Source d’Argent is a little busier, but you will always be able to find your own hidden corner of paradise among the imposing granite boulders. It is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, if not the most beautiful, and personally, I can see why. Have you ever tried to imagine what the Garden of Eden might have looked like? Well, Anse Source d’Argent is its perfect embodiment, ideal for long swims in exceptionally clear, shallow water.

My advice is to visit the beaches at different times of day, for example in the morning and then again in the afternoon, as their appearance changes dramatically because the tides turn every six hours. At low tide, stretches of sand emerge that you may not have noticed before, and vice versa.

We were fortunate enough to be there for the La Digue festival, which is held every year on 15 August. There is a festive atmosphere in the village throughout the day, with people laughing and joking everywhere, while music that makes you want to dance can be heard echoing through the streets in the distance. We like to experience a journey to the full, doing what the locals do and getting to know them, so I recommend getting up as early as possible each day to make the most of the island. At 06:30, it is wonderful: just you, a few locals, birdsong and the sweet-and-sour scent of fruit, with deserted beaches where you can see the burrows the crabs built during the night. Over the course of a week, we explored the entire island without ever stopping during the day, returning home only in the evening (at around 19:00, as the sun sets early there; being just south of the equator, there are 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of darkness). Before heading back, we would sit on the strip of white sand at ‘Anse la Reunion’, opposite the little island known as ‘Robinson Island’, admiring magnificent sunsets that were always different and filled with countless colours. This beach was always deserted yet stunning, with lush vegetation reaching almost to the sea, and it made you hope that paradise really looks like this… it became our regular evening ritual for seven nights. I must warn you that once you arrive on La Digue, you will never want to leave. I do not think any other place in the world will remain so deeply etched in my heart and mind: an explosion of colours, emotions, scents and flavours; an explosion of happiness and real life. It was a wonderful experience: the island and its people, who were always smiling and helpful. We left a piece of our hearts on La Digue, but I think what we took away with us was worth three times as much.

We do not usually use agencies for our travels, but we were genuinely delighted with the work done by SeyVillas. Everything was impeccable, and they were always on hand to answer any questions and responded promptly. In short, we could not have asked for anything more. Well, what else can we say but thank you for everything… and see you soon, because we want to return as quickly as possible!

Sara & Alberto

* Note from SeyVillas: whether individual beaches are suitable for swimming depends on the season. Please see our dedicated ‘Climate and Location’ section to learn all about the trade winds and tides.