La Digue: A Little Pearl in the Indian Ocean

We departed from Fiumicino at 22:00 with Etihad, bound for Abu Dhabi. The plane was packed with passengers and rather uncomfortable because the seats were so cramped, while the catering was decidedly poor. After a 2-hour stopover, we flew on to Mahé. On arrival, our contact from the ‘Creole’ agency was there waiting for us. The transfer to the port was well organised. We waited around 2 hours for the fast catamaran, which, despite the rough seas, got us to Praslin on time. The ‘Creole’ team also provided good assistance there for the final ferry.

At last, very tired but happy, we arrived on La Digue.

Entering the small harbour was quite an experience given the sea conditions, but the captain skilfully brought us to the mooring. From the harbour, we took a taxi to Le Surmer. The property is in a strategic location, just a stone’s throw from a lovely little private beach with sun loungers in the shade of a gigantic tree. The chalet is spacious and comfortable, with a fully equipped kitchen. Brigitte, the property manager, was helpful, kind and ready to meet our every request. The Wi-Fi connection (€20 for 10 days) was good, and all the appliances worked properly.

With bicycles hired from Le Surmer (SCR 100 per day, around €6), we set off to explore the island. Close by, we found 2 shops and a bank with a fully functioning cash machine. Near the port, there are stalls selling very good, fresh fruit and vegetables in the morning at reasonable prices. To buy fish, you need to be lucky enough to catch a fisherman just as he comes ashore.

Heading north, we reached Anse Severe: a beautiful beach with coral sand. Along the way, we came across giant tortoises roaming freely. After rounding the northern tip of the island, we continued our outing, discovering spectacular natural scenery as far as ‘Chez Jules’, where we enjoyed a delicious mango and papaya smoothie: SCR 100 well spent (just under €6). Refreshed, we headed back.

We went out to find something to eat and came across Gregoire’s pizzeria. An important tip: always take a torch with you when going out in the evening, as most of the roads are dark, the bicycles have no lights, people ride fast and… keep to the left! The less said about the pizza, the better: not a mistake to repeat.

It was a beautiful day! We made a quick trip to the fruit market in the centre of La Passe: mangoes, papayas, passion fruit, limes, baby bananas, avocados… it felt like a dream!

We set off towards Grand Anse. The route is varied, with some uphill stretches, but fortunately it winds through the shade of extremely dense, lush vegetation. The sight on arrival was breathtaking. A very long beach of soft, white coral sand, surrounded by majestic granite rocks, palm trees and dense undergrowth.

Despite the waves, entering the water was not dangerous because of the sandy seabed. You can swim in deep, turquoise waters that are full of fish and pleasantly warm. Fins are particularly useful for swimming safely when there are currents. During the hottest hours, we had a snack in the shade of a palm tree, followed by a long reading break and a nap.

On the way back, we stopped at BiBì for a papaya smoothie (SCR 50, just under €3), which was nothing special. We had dinner at home, with excellent grilled fish bought from a fisherman who had just returned in his boat.

At last, we visited Anse Source d'Argent. Admission costs SCR 115 (around €7). The enchanting scenery and surroundings live up to their reputation.

The sand is exceptionally fine and dotted with pink coral. The granite rocks are majestic and striking. Unfortunately, swimming was disappointing because of the low tide. The coral is dead. However, it is possible to do a little snorkelling in the pools and see several small shoals of tropical fish trapped there. While exploring the reserve, we came across the giant tortoises. Sadly, they were not roaming freely as they do elsewhere on the island, but were confined to a large muddy enclosure. The beautifully maintained vanilla plantation was interesting, with the rows mulched using coconut shells.

We had dinner at the ‘Bor Lanmer’ takeaway near the Creole office in La Passe. It is advisable to stop by in the morning to reserve the fish, which can also be eaten there at outdoor tables. The fish was good; the setting was very basic, but the food was well prepared. Excellent value for money.

Anse Severe. A relaxing day of walking and cycling. Here too, because of the low tide, we were unable to swim, as the waves prevented us from getting beyond the reef. You may also come across cows that need to scratch… their horns!

A friendly Creole chap offered us some coconut on the beach and invited us to his kiosk, the ‘Turtle Bar’. Not one to repeat: the papaya juice was very watered down, so SCR 100 badly spent.

We headed for Petite Anse. Another little corner of paradise, reached from Grand Anse along a slightly steep path through dense vegetation, taking around 10 minutes. It is best to wear trainers. The beach is deserted in the morning, the sand is the finest on the entire island, and the sandy seabed makes it perfect for bathing and swimming. It is advisable to wear fins so that you can swim without worrying about the current. We saw shoals of large fish.

We had dinner at the ‘Belle Vue’ restaurant with a friendly Italian couple who were also staying at Le Surmer. The journey from the coast to the restaurant, at the top of the hill, was quite an adventure: we travelled up a very steep, narrow road in the open back of a small truck fitted with wooden benches. The view was worth it and absolutely beautiful. The food was excellent and carefully prepared, the staff were friendly, and the atmosphere was welcoming. There is a set menu (€10 for the aperitif and €35 for dinner, including transport).

Not a good day. The weather changed, and we had to cancel our boat trip. We cycled to Anse Fourmis. The scenery was lovely. We rescued a little reef fish that had become trapped at low tide! On the way back, we experienced the thrill of a tropical downpour! It was violent but fortunately brief. We found shelter at a small fruit stall. As soon as the rain eased, we set off again and… what luck: we spotted some Creole lads hunting octopus on the rocks. We managed to buy one, which we enjoyed for dinner.

The weather was still changeable, but Kevin, the skipper with whom we had booked the trip, let us know that it was going ahead and that he was waiting for us at the jetty. The motorboat was lovely, but the crew were unfriendly and rushed.

Our destinations were Coco Island and Félicité, with the trip expected to last 4 hours. The reef here is also dead. Visibility at Coco Island was reasonable, with plenty of fish near the rocks, but the currents were strong, and we were called back on board. They refused to anchor and let us go ashore on the island. We then moved on to Félicité. Visibility there was terrible. We tried swimming again in a different bay, where it was slightly better, but while we were still in the water, they called us back on board. After barely 2 hours, we were back in the harbour on La Digue. We were extremely disappointed with the organisation run by Kevin.

Our holiday was drawing to an end. We treated ourselves to a lovely, relaxing day on the beach at Anse Severe.

We returned to Petite Anse, which had stolen our hearts. We spent a wonderful day there enjoying the sunshine, swimming and walking. On the way back, we stopped at Simon’s kiosk for a plate of fresh fruit and a fantastic smoothie (SCR 115).

Departure day. We spent a few hours on Mahé while waiting for our flight. Thanks to the kindness of the Creole team, who allowed us to leave our luggage in their office, we were able to visit Victoria and wander among the colourful stalls of the fish, fruit and spice market. On 24 January, we were back in Italy.

Pino and Giovanna