Escaping Winter 2.0

Seychelles 2019

It did not take us long to realise that the Seychelles would be well worth another visit. With SeyVillas, of course, because they know how to make things work when it matters. We had booked everything through this special agency. Following their recommendation, we chose the flight ourselves. It was cheap but basic. Air France – a great price and a renowned airline.

As we drove from Lower Saxony to Berlin Tegel Airport in frost and icy conditions, we received the news that our connecting flight from Paris to the Seychelles had been cancelled. The fear of a possible airport strike was nothing compared with the prospect of losing a day on La Digue and having to endure Paris in winter instead.

When we arrived in Berlin, the check-in staff had no idea about any flight cancellations. The manager in charge had everything under control, and within 10 minutes we had a perfect alternative: via Vienna to Dubai with Emirates, then onwards to Mahé. These islands simply cannot disappoint. Just like last time: arrive and be welcomed by Creole. Be taken to the harbour, explore Victoria. Buy fruit at the market, exchange money, change into summer clothes, apply sun cream, meet lovely people and wait for the ferry. Enjoy the warmth, the waves and the sound of people laughing on the upper deck.

This time, we decided to go straight to La Digue. This wonderfully slow-paced island. Almost no cars, but now equipped with e-bikes on wide tyres. Reggae playing from every third bicycle ridden by the friendly locals. They always seem to be in a good mood, and it is infectious. Reggae plays from a speaker attached to a young Rasta’s shopping bag. He politely buys a bottle of water. I am delighted that I can be happy without any weed at all.

Two little birds Our guesthouse, Le Surmer, on Anse La Réunion, is right next to the place where we stayed two years ago. Just as friendly, though already a little more worn. Nevertheless, the first thing we need to do is catch up on 38 hours of sleep. There are now more takeaways, which makes finding food easier.

A happy couple Naturally, our first bicycle ride takes us to Grand Anse. Shortly before our departure, I had ordered a lightweight beach shelter because I suspected that the few granite caves might already be occupied. Three minutes to put it up and no stress about getting sunburnt. The Seychellois know how to preserve their country, and every one of us tourists should do the same. My queen and wife lost her snorkel in the surf. A French neighbour lost his diving mask. Together, we found both among the roaring waves. All that remains is a shared smile. Nothing more is needed in this paradise.

Nevertheless, you should respect the waves and the current. The next day, I sit on our terrace as the rain pours down, though it has not really become any cooler. I am still sitting here in shorts and otherwise bare beneath the canopy of the sky. January is considered the rainy season. Nature can grow. Tomorrow it will be warm, hot and dry again. You simply have to laugh in this warm rain. Rastafa vibration, Seychellois, yeah. We have the feeling that more older couples are visiting these islands of love than in 2017. But the older people laugh and enjoy themselves just as much as the young. Islands of love and peace are rare, and a fountain of youth for the world. The salt of life and love on our skin. The next day, we took the familiar route, with its long climb and fast descent, back to Grande Anse and continued straight along the 7-minute path to Petite Anse.

We had brought our beach shelter, but as all the palm shelters were empty, we settled into a particularly lovely one. A Seychellois man with dreadlocks soon came over and said that, if you used one of the shelters he had built, it would be appropriate to buy one coconut to drink and another to eat at a reasonable price. A total of €6.75, including delivery, is and remains fair. He was delighted and brought us the delicacies. High surf and lovely snorkelling by the rocks.

Delivery service In the evening, fish curry for €20, with vegetable soup, salad and dessert at our guesthouse. On 22 January, we reached Anse Cocos .

The most beautiful mirror My personal favourite beach up to that point. It can be reached from Petite Anse in 25 minutes along a green jungle path. It is so wonderfully empty. And at the far left is a shallow sea pool filled with beautiful fish. Climbing La Digue’s highest mountain, Nid d'Aigle, is almost a must. It is only 333 m high, but you reach the summit drenched in your own sweat. There is a pleasant restaurant 500 metres below the summit. Ask there which path to take, because the antenna near the top is not the summit with its breathtaking panorama. On the way back, do not miss the finest chilled fruit cocktail for 100 rupees.

Delicious cocktails It fills your body and face with pure joy. I asked the three friendly Rastas whether they knew the route from Anse Cocos to Anse Caïman. We shall see whether we can actually follow their directions tomorrow. The path is supposedly another 40 minutes long. You soon feel that this life in paradise also keeps your body fit. Today I am celebrating my 60th birthday. I know there is nowhere more beautiful where I could spend it. Christine has put up balloons and garlands. Today we want to try to reach Anse Caiman. When we arrive at Anse Coco, we see a large sea turtle in the wild for the first time, right by the beach – what a gift. High surf and lovely snorkelling by the rocks, and a special ceremony awaits me at our palm shelter. My queen Christine knights me with a palm-leaf sword as the Knight of the Coconut. What an honour to swear eternal loyalty to her.

The knighting: Squire Klaus You have waited so long. Now the time has come. On your 60th birthday, at La Digue’s most beautiful beach, Anse Coco, I dub you Knight of the Coconut. May you always remain faithfully at my service. Otherwise … As we are wearing only swimwear and sandals at the sea pool, we intend to walk only a short way along the path to Anse Caiman.

Anse Caiman Contrary to the reports, it is much shorter and easier to walk than expected. After 20 minutes, we arrive at the ruins and the smallest beach of our trip so far. Only a large number of hermit crabs are scuttling about on the fine white sand. The path onwards to Anse Fourmis, however, is genuinely challenging. Just 20 m from our destination, we decide to turn back. When we reach our bungalow after a long day of walking and cycling, we can feel the exertion in every muscle. We enjoy the fish dinner we had ordered in advance, with pumpkin salad, chutney and other delicacies. Full and content, we listen to one of the few but heavy night-time downpours before we both drift into an unusually restless sleep. On our final day on La Digue, we cycle around the north of the island beneath a lightly overcast sky. Along the north-west coast, the sea remains shallow for a long way. Many sharp-edged pieces of coral and stones make it uninviting for swimming.

Giant tortoise At Anse Fourmis, at the end of the road, several enormous giant tortoises were walking across the tarmac. While reading aloud and afterwards, we watch six Seychellois searching through the tidal-flat-like shallows, using hooked iron rods to pull octopuses from their hiding places and earn their living. It seems arduous work, yielding no more than two or three of these sea creatures even after hours of effort. The friendliness of all the staff and the delicious evening meal make up for the rather monotonous and slightly dull breakfast at Le Surmer. Just as we are about to set off for a takeaway, a complete power cut plunges the entire island into total darkness. So we sit on the property’s own beach and enjoy the starry sky until we can leave an hour later. Two takeaways have already sold out, but at the harbour we still manage to get an excellent sweet-and-sour fish curry for €3.50. The following day, we spend the time before our pick-up on the beach beneath the shade of a takamaka tree, reading aloud some more while a pleasant sea breeze keeps us refreshed.

Onwards to Mahé

Once again, we are delighted with all the transfers provided by Creole. Excellent service and the ever-present friendliness truly warm the heart. It is Sunday, and after the crossing on the upper deck to Mahé, it becomes clear that the Seychellois also enjoy taking day trips. Traffic on the eastern side is heavy, and the beaches and villages do not seem particularly inviting. As we cross overland to the other side, everything becomes much more peaceful, with lush rainforest all around. Simone gives us a warm welcome. Our double room, furnished with locally made furniture, is stylish, clean and inviting. Despite the late hour, we can still order an evening meal, which turns into a culinary feast, accompanied by an enjoyable conversation with the owner of Takamaka Green Village.

Takamaka Green Village Maximiliano is an Italian who has lovingly created his home here and impresses us with his hospitality. His chef, Jim, assisted by the wonderful Abdul from Bangladesh, conjures up a delicious evening meal, followed by complimentary brown and white Takamaka coconut rum. Delicious. The Anse Takamaka, a 5-minute walk from the guesthouse, is excellent for snorkelling, and its gentle waves make swimming a real pleasure.

Straight after the generous buffet breakfast, the beach is still empty and inviting. Around midday, a larger number of day-trippers arrive, but this does not bother us, as we still need to stock up our fridge. To do so, we take the €1 bus to the nearest village, Quatre Bones. Once again, we realise that, thanks to our intuition and the excellent advice from SeyVillas, we have found another dream location. Nothing feels staged. Every morning, we are greeted first by singing birds and the rushing mountain stream that flows through Takamaka Green Village towards the nearby sea. Massimo and his staff welcome us warmly at every meal. Many guests are not here for the first time and seem more like friends. He has a wonderfully warm manner that radiates his love for this country and for his guests. We remain delighted.

The strongest woman in the world Sadly, it is our penultimate day. But our time here has been among the brightest days of our lives, and we would dearly love to return. Today we went to the beach again, but the roaring sea and thick cloud cover meant that only bodyboarding in the surf was possible. A heavy downpour sent us back to the guesthouse, and we decided to do some more shopping. At the bus stop, a young mother was already waiting with her beautiful baby in her arms, along with James, a carpenter with laughing eyes and a colourful reggae hat in the Jamaican colours. Our hour spent waiting beneath a shelter in the pouring rain turned into a warm and fascinating conversation about politics, the property business, woodworking, social structures and the Creole culture of the Seychelles.

The bus drivers are exceptionally skilled. After buying Takamaka coconut rum and water, we waited just 5 minutes this time. Suddenly, a bus appeared. When I signalled, the driver braked sharply, let us board and took us back to our guesthouse free of charge. We were happy to give him a tip, although he had not expected one.

Exotic alleyway Experiences like this bring indescribable happiness time and again, but we are slowly becoming sad at the thought of having to leave this wonderfully beautiful, peaceful country in 36 hours. Nevertheless, we enjoy our final day beneath an overcast sky. We have the beach entirely to ourselves, and in the evening there is a wonderful farewell dinner, along with a lovely gift from our host. Goodbye, Takamaka