Another World

After a non-stop flight from Frankfurt to Mahé, we found ourselves at a surprisingly small airport in a tropical climate. The transfer with Creole Travel to Beau Vallon was straightforward, taking us through bustling Victoria and across the island to Bord Mer Villa. It was only about a three-minute walk from the white sand, coconut palms and warm waters of the beach. A dream!

At the northern end of the beach, there is a coral reef that is easy to explore from the shore with a mask and snorkel. All sorts of water sports are available, and Beau Vallon is said to be the liveliest beach in the Seychelles, but it never felt truly crowded. We could always find a shady spot beneath the coconut palms or Indian almond trees. With a book in my hand, I watched the silhouette of a white-tailed tropicbird glide across the blue sky. A heavenly sight.

Beau Vallon is right in the midst of everything; it is not a secluded holiday destination. There are numerous hotels, cafés, restaurants and supermarkets. Every Wednesday, there is a market with stalls selling local food and trinkets, where the island’s young people have fun. You share the area and beach with other tourists and the cheerful, friendly local people. Markets offer a wonderful insight into the country and its people. The colourful, varied and fascinating Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market can be found in small, bustling Victoria. A journey to Victoria on a Tata bus costs five rupees and is well worth taking.

We found deserted beaches while exploring in our hire car. Once you have passed through Victoria, the roads become quiet. We stopped time and again, finding gorgeous beaches that were almost deserted, including one beside a wonderful restaurant right on Anse Royale. Each beach is more beautiful than the last, but in my opinion, the most beautiful on Mahé is Baie Lazare. Unfortunately, the beach is not open to swimmers and snorkellers at all times of the year.

During the south-east monsoon, the catamaran crossing to Praslin can be rather choppy, particularly when the weather is rainy and windy. But in the Seychelles, the rain is warm and does not last long. The small ferry terminal at Baie Sainte Anne is the hub for travel between the islands. Our accommodation here was Guesthouse Chalet Cote Mer, in a somewhat secluded location at Baie Sainte Anne, which we could see from our balcony. Whether we had questions or requests, wanted to book excursions or needed a hire car, the ever-friendly guesthouse staff were always happy to help.

Praslin is far quieter than Mahé and has considerably less tourist infrastructure. There is not much within walking distance, but here too you can take a Tata bus or easily hire a vehicle. We chose the latter and explored the small island, where you certainly do not need satnav. The only place you might lose your way is Vallée de Mai, the small national park. Here, you gain a vivid impression of a primeval palm forest unlike anywhere else in the world. As well as Coco de Mer, Palmiste, Van Houtte’s palm and Pandanus species found nowhere else grow here. The sights, atmosphere and sounds of this rainforest are unique.

Praslin also treated us to the fantastic sight of Anse Lazio, a beautiful and popular beach in the north of the island. Right by Anse Lazio is a lovely restaurant serving fantastic Creole cuisine. What better way to get to know another culture than through its flavours?

A day trip to the nearby island of La Digue was a must. On the almost car-free island, we hired bicycles and cycled to Anse Source d’Argent, as did numerous other tourists. It is an impressive beach with ancient granite formations. On La Digue, for the first time during this holiday, I felt that the small island was overcrowded. That was not an impression I had at Beau Vallon.

After seven days on Praslin, we took the catamaran back to Mahé Airport. Strong winds and rain made the return crossing rather unpleasant. This was no fault of Creole Travel Services, as all the transfers had been reliable and comfortable.

After a total of 14 days in the Seychelles, we began our journey home feeling deeply relaxed and completely unhurried. It will not be the last time we visit this other world.