Island Hopping in the Seychelles
We love exploring, and in the Seychelles there really are endless opportunities to do so in all sorts of ways: on foot, along rugged but well-trodden and clearly marked trails through the jungle and beside the sea; by car, which can easily be hired on both Mahé and Praslin (an automatic is best, as you already have the challenge of driving on the left). There is no traffic and the roads are good, although perhaps a little narrow and not always well protected, but everyone drives very slowly and is patient with tourists. Cycling around La Digue feels like riding through a huge private park, with only the occasional motor vehicle transporting goods. Those who can afford it can also arrange helicopter or plane tours, although we did not do so for financial reasons.
And then there is the sea... both on the surface while snorkelling and below it while diving. The sheer quantity and variety of marine life is astonishing: sharks, barracudas, turtles, eagle rays, moray eels, lobsters and dolphins were just some of our most memorable encounters!
And all this fish is also served as food: grilled, stewed or in curries (every cook has their own closely guarded recipe, and the fresh spices available to everyone create incredible explosions of flavour), accompanied by papaya or mango chutney, vanilla-scented rice, lentil purée and much more. The cuisine is simple, yet wonderfully tasty and varied!
For my wife and me, the Seychelles were a whirlwind of vivid emotions, surprising and fascinating encounters, constant discoveries and lovely people who were open, honest and reliable, and fiercely proud of the islands they protect with such passion and care!
In short, we decided to book only our flight in advance (an excellent one with Turkish Airlines) and our accommodation: on Mahé, we spent 3 days at La Fontaine Holiday Apartments and Villas, which offers superb views over Beau Vallon, plenty of space and a delicious breakfast with lots of local fruit. On Praslin, we stayed at Berjaya Praslin Resort. To be honest, it is a fairly modest resort, but reasonable for the price and in a truly enviable location, right beside the sea on one of the most beautiful beaches at Anse Volbert (Cote d'Or), in a sort of pedestrian area full of restaurants and small shops, with a highly professional dive centre, car and bicycle hire, and small supermarkets.
On La Digue, we were hosted by Fleur at Belle des Iles Guest House, where hospitality truly reaches unrivalled heights! We had a huge room with a luxurious bathroom and everything we needed to prepare breakfast, a covered outdoor area with a sofa and glass table, and yet another space with sun loungers, an outdoor shower and a huge round table with 4 chairs. There, our host spoiled us with local delicacies on request, at prices you would expect from an Italian pizzeria! How we will miss Fleur and our evening chats with her (she is also a former maître d’hôtel who qualified in Italy ;-))!
When we arrived at the airport, we looked for a hire car, and within 5 minutes we were on our way to our first little nest... If you have never driven an automatic car before, especially on the left, it takes a little time to get used to, but it is perfectly manageable. That evening, tired from the journey, we found one of the many takeaway outlets on the beach that we would return to throughout our stay. They are actually fully fledged field kitchens serving all sorts of dishes to suit every taste, including vegetarian options.
Our first concern on day 1 was obtaining ferry tickets for our island hopping, but it was actually very easy and efficient, provided you remember to carry your passport, as it is required when buying the tickets. As can always happen when travelling, we also had a small mishap: we had a flat tyre. The staff were extremely kind and efficient: they came to our accommodation, changed it and brought us a new one!
On Mahé, I would certainly recommend heading into the mountains, where, besides scenery straight out of a pirate film, you will find beautiful hillsides covered in tea plantations! Personally, however, I would not recommend Eden Island, an artificial island modelled on those in the Emirates. I found it too contrived and pretentious, and far removed from the authentic character of these islands, although it will certainly appeal to those who enjoy luxury. Discovering Anse Takamaka in the south-west was wonderful, as was the Barbarons reserve with its mangrove lagoon.
Praslin, meanwhile, probably offers the best balance between the wild and the civilised, with unforgettable beaches such as Anse Lazio and Anse Georgette. For the latter, book access through the golf course as soon as you arrive on the islands, because it is well worth it. The alternative route through the jungle is objectively tiring and not entirely easy, although undoubtedly fascinating, as it immerses you beneath a canopy of 30 m-tall trees, surrounded by birds in 1,000 colours and with 1,000 different calls. Remember to bring plenty of water!
Much of the island can be explored by car, and Fond Ferdinand is also well worth a visit. For just a few euros, you can enjoy a guided, close-up encounter with the legendary Coco de Mer and countless other plants that we are used to seeing chopped up in little jars in our supermarkets!
La Digue is simply paradise on earth, a place where everyone knows and greets one another, life moves at a leisurely pace and the warmth of its people feels as comforting as a security blanket. All you need is a torch for the evenings, a swimming costume and a video camera, because your memory card will soon be full!
The Union Estate is picturesque, with its monolith, colonial house, coconut and vanilla plantations, tortoises and copra mill.
Anse Source d'Argent is the masterpiece: a succession of tiny coves framed by the famous red granite rocks and plants that reach down to touch the warm waters, which teem with marine life. You can also enjoy excellent snorkelling at the far right-hand end of Anse Severe. And to experience the atmosphere of the dense jungle once again, you simply must visit the almost deserted Anse Cocos, starting from Grand Anse and crossing Petite Anse.
Everywhere you go, the atmosphere is romantic and unhurried, a tonic for both mind and body, a dream brought to life and a beautiful, comforting memory to carry into the future. Probably the most beautiful country in the world!
