16 Days of Island Hopping on Praslin, La Digue and Mahé for Four People

As a couple aged between 24 and 30, it certainly is not easy to find a holiday destination that largely meets everyone’s individual needs. For our trip from mid-September to early October, we mainly wanted lovely weather, beautiful beaches and relaxation, but also plenty of variety. Our budget for the entire trip was also around €2,700 per person. When we eventually came across the SeyVillas website, we quickly realised that the Seychelles came very close to what we had in mind, and ultimately decided to book an island-hopping trip across 3 islands.

We set off in mid-September with Emirates, flying from Munich via Dubai, where we had a 2-hour stopover, to Mahé. In our opinion, a flight with a stopover on the Arabian Peninsula is highly recommended, as it is quite pleasant to stretch your legs after a 5½-hour flight. Despite having to change terminals, the 2-hour stopover was long enough and not at all stressful. Smokers can buy a carton of branded cigarettes in Dubai for €7. As cigarettes are slightly more expensive in the Seychelles than in Germany, at around €9 per packet, it is definitely worth bringing some with you.

After landing on Mahé early in the morning, we were greeted by a polite lady right outside the airport. She gave us documents outlining our itinerary before we were taken by minibus to the ferry for Praslin. Overall, we can say that all transfers, both by water and on land, were straightforward, well organised and, surprisingly, always punctual throughout the trip. On arrival at each island, you are also given a local contact who briefly visits your accommodation on the day you arrive, is available to answer any questions and can be reached by mobile phone every day.

Praslin (5 nights)

After a ferry journey of around 1 hour and a 15-minute drive, we arrived at the Sea View Lodge on Praslin. We were quite happy with our ‘Apple Villa’ bungalow. However, the rooms and furniture were already a little worn, and the kitchen was not particularly well equipped. Unfortunately, there was no salt or seasoning to be found. We also repeatedly experienced technical problems with the oven, hob and television. The smoke alarm right by the entrance was unfortunately rather over-sensitive and went off nearly every time we cooked. Fortunately, we could always rely on the helpful service team, who were on call from morning until evening. Apart from these minor ‘issues’, we still felt very comfortable, thanks in part to the unbeatable sea view. The sea was about 20 metres from our terrace, just across a small road. It was also very convenient to be able to decide each day whether we wanted breakfast or dinner. Dinner in particular is prepared with great care by the owner and is highly recommended! However, if we were to stay at the Sea View Lodge again, we would probably choose one of the newer villas on stilts, which are situated slightly higher up the hillside.

In our opinion, it is highly advisable to book a hire car online in advance or hire one directly from the Sea View Lodge. The roads can sometimes be a little narrow, but thankfully you will not find congested roads or stressed drivers here. Anyone staying at the Sea View Lodge or nearby who intends to self-cater will probably find it difficult without a hire car.
At Sea View Lodge, Praslin Nevertheless, we really liked the location of the accommodation, as it is close to the famous Anse Lazio, which, in our opinion, is one of the 3 most beautiful beaches in the Seychelles, alongside Anse Georgette and Anse Source d'Argent. Anse Lazio offers everything you could imagine in a paradise beach: fine white sand, exceptionally clear water and magnificent rounded granite rocks. It is worth visiting before 09:00. There is then a very good chance that you will have the beach entirely to yourself, guaranteeing some beautiful photographs! If you walk a little further beyond the ‘main beach’, you will also find 2 beautiful coves that are excellent for snorkelling. We were lucky enough to spot a sea turtle in the wild here. Anse Lazio, Praslin Other beautiful beaches, each with its own character and some visited by very few people, include Anse la Blague and Anse Consolation. We would also particularly like to highlight Anse Georgette. The blue colour of the water here is incredible. If you are reasonably fit and do not access it through the adjoining hotel, which requires advance registration, you can reach Anse Georgette fromAnse Lazio via a hiking trail that takes around 1 hour. We recommend this to visitors who do not mind a little exertion and would also like to see Praslin’s countryside and rainforest, which we thoroughly enjoyed. You are rewarded with wonderful views of the sea and neighbouring islands. Most impressive of all, however, is the view down over Anse Georgette and the knowledge that, after just a few more steps, you can cool off in the azure-blue water. Anse Georgette, Praslin On our final day on Praslin, we visited the Vallée de Mai. Nature lovers in particular will certainly appreciate it, although the admission price of €20 per person is not exactly low. The enormous palm leaves, unspoilt rainforest and, of course, the large coconuts are truly impressive. However, anyone who is not particularly interested in nature may quickly become bored and might prefer to spend the money on a lovely dinner.

Our tips for Praslin: Shop in stores where you see plenty of local people. The modern shops may look nicer, but in our experience they are considerably more expensive. Buy fish directly from the fishermen by the roadside. It may look a little unhygienic at first glance, but the fish comes straight from the sea and is therefore far fresher than anything you would find at a market in Germany. We paid the equivalent of only around €4 for a large, sushi-grade tuna! For a few extra euros, they will even gut and scale the fish for you.

Freshly caught fish

La Digue (4 nights)

After a ferry journey of around 15 minutes, we arrived at our second destination, La Digue. We spent 4 nights at Elje Villa, which was our favourite accommodation across all 3 islands and one we would certainly recommend. The villa was very well maintained, well equipped and had a certain charm thanks to its Creole-style furnishings. This surprised us, as it was also the accommodation we paid the least for, perhaps because it is not directly by the sea and does not have a sea view. However, anyone who values a certain level of privacy and does not want to share the kitchen, living room and terrace with strangers is probably not in the right place here. The 2 resident dogs, which were very well behaved, did not bother us either. Bicycles are, of course, an essential part of any stay on La Digue and can be booked directly through Elje Villa. They allow you to reach anywhere on La Digue within 20–30 minutes. Elje Villa, La Digue Our first stop was the beautiful Anse Severe in the north-west of the island. This beach is quite popular, probably because it is easy to reach from the main village of La Passe and is a wonderful place to watch the sunset. However, we were bothered by the numerous ants, which kept crawling over our feet and towel.

Early the next morning, we cycled to Anse Source d'Argent, which can only be reached through a small park. Admission to the park, and therefore the beach, costs around €12. You can cycle through the park, but bicycles must be left before reaching the beach. It is important to remember where you have parked your bicycle, as they all look very similar and can easily be mixed up. You cannot lock them either. Unfortunately, one of our bicycles was mistaken for someone else’s and taken, so the bicycle hire operator had to search the entire island for it. Fortunately, La Digue is not very large, so he found it again fairly quickly.

In contrast to Anse Source d'Argent, the park itself is not particularly spectacular. Our favourite feature was the huge granite rock, which we were able to climb via its gently sloping rear side. However, the climb is not entirely without risk and should only be attempted in sturdy footwear. The granite has a rough surface, so there is plenty of grip. You should nevertheless check the weather beforehand. If there are clouds nearby, it is best not to climb, as the rock becomes very slippery in the rain and could be extremely dangerous. Once at the top, we were rewarded with a breathtaking view of Praslin and the offshore reef. It was definitely worth the effort. At the foot of the rock, you can feed several giant tortoises. These tame tortoises enjoy having their necks stroked and are very gentle. Granite rocks But now for the island’s most beautiful beach. Anse Source d'Argent is the absolute highlight of La Digue. When we arrived at around 8 am and strolled along the path past small coves and several beautiful rocks, we noticed that we were almost the only people there. Unfortunately, the sky was initially very cloudy and the tide was at its highest. At first, we therefore found a beach with choppy seas and water that was not particularly clear. We were already wondering, ‘And this is supposedly the most beautiful beach in the world?’ After 2 hours, however, we realised that our concerns had been completely unfounded. Once the clouds cleared and the tide receded, it became obvious that this had to be one of the most beautiful places on Earth. The calm, crystal-clear water, with the large rounded rocks in the background, was absolutely stunning. Small channels through the reef allowed us to wade a long way out into the sea with the camera and take some fantastic photos. We were also often accompanied by large, beautiful butterfly-like fish that came so close we could almost stroke them. Source d'Argent, La Digue The 3 neighbouring beaches in the south of the island (Fond de l'Anse (Grand Anse), Anse Petite Cour and Anse Cocos) were completely different. All 3 beaches are quite similar, which is why our view was, ‘Once you’ve seen one, you’ve seen the others.’ That does not mean they are not beautiful, though. As already mentioned, these beaches have a very different atmosphere from Anse Source d'Argent. There is no offshore reef here, so the sea is very rough, with fairly high waves. Swimming is not recommended because people die every year due to the dangerous currents. However, as long as you go no deeper than waist height and can still stand securely, you can safely cool off here too. Anyone looking for a change from the typical reef-protected beaches will find 3 spacious bays here, although most offer no shade from the sun.

If you do not want to prepare all your own meals, La Digue has several takeaway stalls where you can enjoy delicious local cuisine for around €4–5. The hillside restaurant Snack Bellevue also comes highly recommended. For the equivalent of €30, excluding drinks, you can enjoy a 3-course meal, with a shuttle collecting you directly from your accommodation and, of course, taking you back afterwards. The view across the west coast and towards Praslin is truly beautiful. If you would like to spend a romantic evening watching the sunset over a pleasant meal and a glass of wine or beer, this is just the place. Our contact person arranged the reservation for us very easily via WhatsApp.

Snorkelling trip with a barbecue on Big Sister: On our final day on La Digue, we joined the guests staying next door for a €100-per-person boat trip to the neighbouring islands, including a snorkelling stop and barbecue. In a small yacht belonging to our friendly guide, we passed Small Sister Island and stopped at a reef off the neighbouring island of Big Sister for some snorkelling. Although parts of the reef were dead, we were amazed by the impressive colours and diversity of fish. There were countless fish in every colour, shape and size. Afterwards, we landed on the coast of Big Sister. The island is privately owned and has just a single villa. We were led across the owner’s well-kept grounds, with palm trees, a pond and a few giant tortoises, to a deserted, wild beach. We spent around 1 hour there while our guide prepared the barbecue. Freshly caught fish and chicken in a local marinade were grilled right on the beach. They were served with delicious salads and cold drinks.

We were then taken to another snorkelling spot off the coast of Felicite. Here, we saw a small catshark and a sea turtle, among other marine life. Although it is possible to snorkel from many beaches in the Seychelles, the best way to discover the diversity of species is by taking a boat trip to one of the snorkelling spots. Anyone interested in the underwater world of the Seychelles should definitely include this in their plans.

Mahé (5 nights)

After taking the ferry back to Mahé via Praslin, we were driven by minibus to our final accommodation, Choice Villa, near Beau Vallon beach. We did not like this accommodation quite as much as the villas on the other two islands. Choice Villa was very clean, and breakfast was not limited to just toast and jam. There are two small shops right next door, which are well stocked with everyday essentials. However, the walk to Beau Vallon beach is rather arduous. The facilities are also very basic, and the furnishings are not particularly inviting. Here too, the furniture is quite worn. What bothered us most, however, was an English member of staff who looks after the villa and prepares breakfast. She did not make us feel particularly welcome and was often rather moody. By contrast, the local night watchman was extremely courteous, friendly and helpful. Thanks to his warm manner, he was always up for a laugh.

Anyone wishing to explore Mahé should definitely hire a car. The roads are a little busier here than on Praslin, and you may well find yourself stuck in traffic in Victoria. Even so, we had no trouble finding our way around. You just need to be particularly alert at night and watch out for the unpaved edges of the road.

We therefore used our hire car to explore the entire island. Mahé naturally also has beautiful beaches that undoubtedly rank among the loveliest in the world. However, anyone who has already seen the beaches on Praslin and La Digue will be rather spoilt and will not find anything comparable on Mahé. The one beach we would particularly highlight is Anse Royale on the east coast. The water here is beautiful, and if you swim out to the rocks at the northern end, just before the small island, you can discover some fascinating marine life. For us, this was the best snorkelling beach we visited in the Seychelles. Among other things, we spotted several lionfish between the rocks. The coral is also still intact and quite magnificent here.

Anse Royale, Mahé We found particularly fine, icing-sugar-like sand at Port Launay on the north-west coast. If you are looking for waves and fancy bodyboarding, for example, you should pay a visit to Anse Intendance in the south-west of the island. Our local beach, Beau Vallon, was nothing special to us. However, it is very good for swimming, and you will find several restaurants and evening events of the kind familiar from other holiday destinations. So, if you are looking for a little more activity and enjoy mingling with other tourists, you are sure to have a lovely time here as well. As clouds often linger over the mountains on Mahé and the weather is not always perfect, we can recommend the Takamaka Rum Distillery and the neighbouring golf course for such days.

At the Takamaka Rum Distillery , we joined a guided tour followed by a tasting for around €10. In our opinion, the tour would have been considerably more interesting and entertaining if the tasting had taken place beforehand. Nevertheless, we had a lovely time here, mainly thanks to the amusing guide, who always had a witty remark ready and made the tour genuinely interesting. If you fancy a little golf for a change, you can hit a few balls on the 9-hole course for €30, including equipment. However, the course cannot be compared with European courses and is in rather poor condition. Even so, it is certainly good fun, provided you do not take it too seriously.

A visit to the Sir Selwyn Selwyn Clarke Market also makes a pleasant change from a beach holiday. There is a huge and affordable selection of fresh fish, fruit and vegetables. Anyone looking for small souvenirs for loved ones back home will soon find something suitable here as well. Vanilla essence, coconut oil and various spices make particularly good little gifts.

After almost 2 weeks in the Seychelles, however, we were ready for a little variety. By that, we mean that we were getting rather tired of toast, jam and eggs for breakfast, as well as fish and poultry for dinner. When we heard about a large, well-stocked SPAR supermarket on Eden Island, we set off immediately. And indeed, that was exactly what we found. We were very pleasantly surprised by the prices of the freshly packaged meat, which, unlike at all the other shops in the Seychelles, was quite affordable and fresh, with some items even costing less than in Germany. We therefore stocked up on lamb chops, beef steaks, Nutella, cheese and salami — all the things you do not normally find in the accommodation or small shops.

Here is our verdict on our Seychelles holiday

Looking back, we can unanimously say that the Seychelles met every one of our criteria without exception and even exceeded our expectations! Of course, we already knew beforehand that the Seychelles were a dream destination. After our holiday, however, we would be more inclined to describe them as ‘paradise on earth’. We knew straight away: ‘We absolutely have to come back!’ No matter which countries you have already visited or what you prefer from a holiday, we are certain that nobody will regret a trip to the Seychelles! In our opinion, everyone should see the beauty of this archipelago at least once in their lifetime. And please do not be misled by our holiday photos. In reality, it is even more beautiful!

Naturally, we were most impressed by the dreamlike beaches. Most of them remain largely unspoilt and are sometimes completely deserted. Almost everywhere, overhanging palms or other trees provide natural shade from the sun, so you can safely leave your parasol at home. Fortunately, there are no beaches in the Seychelles crammed with huge hotel complexes, sun loungers and parasols. The consistently friendly, reliable and helpful locals also quickly win you over. It is particularly pleasant that, unlike in many other destinations, locals are not waiting around every corner on the beach or in town trying to part you from your money. We were only rarely asked whether we wanted to buy something, and when we were, we were surprised that ‘no’ was accepted without any prolonged discussion. Most locals simply talk about their beautiful country and want to know where you come from. If you tell them you are from Germany, the conversation usually turns to football, which is the number-one sport in the Seychelles. You can therefore chat with them, free from prejudice, about the simple things in life and will always be treated with respect — something that is, of course, expected in return.

We were even lucky enough to bump into the President of the Seychelles at a beach football tournament on Beau Vallon. We recognised him because you see photos of him from time to time, and he was accompanied by a few bodyguards. After briefly asking one of his bodyguards whether it would be all right to take a photo with him, the President greeted us with a smile and began the usual small talk, just as we had come to expect from the other Seychellois. We were surprised that he could move freely along the beach without attracting much attention. It seemed as though he already knew everyone on the island anyway, greeting one person or another as he went. So he was more like a mayor.

There is only one thing we would do differently on our next holiday in the Seychelles: how we divide the nights between the individual islands. In our opinion, the ideal stay on Praslin is 5 or 6 nights, and 4 or 5 nights on La Digue. We would spend considerably less time on Mahé, as it simply does not have the same paradise-like atmosphere as the other two islands. We would therefore book just 2 or 3 nights on Mahé.

However, Mahé should not be left out entirely as the final island, as it is easier and more relaxing from a practical point of view to have only a short journey to the airport on your last day. Next time, we would also book accommodation near Anse Royale on Mahé. The airport is close by, and it is the perfect base from which to explore the island with a hire car.