We Saw Paradise – Island Hopping in March 2017

For our one-day stay, we received a warm welcome at Hotel La Roussette, which is relatively close to the airport. We were welcomed with fruit juice, our bed was decorated with the word ‘Welcome’, and we were able to check into our room first thing in the morning. After a short rest, we stocked up on drinks and a few bits and pieces at a nearby supermarket, then went for a long walk along the beach towards Anse Royale. Along the way, we stopped for a small picnic and enjoyed the views of the Indian Ocean. The beach walk took longer than expected, and shortly before Anse Royale, the cliffs at Pointe au Sel prevented us from continuing. So we hopped on the bus for 5 rupees per person, just under €0.35. The drivers’ style of driving, combined with the cliffs at Pointe au Sel, made for a unique ride on the Tata bus – an experience that would stay with us throughout the holiday. A short walk at Anse Royale, a quick visit to a takeaway and the exciting bus ride back to the hotel brought our first day in the Seychelles to a close. The following morning, we could choose from 3 breakfast options by the pool, and we were not disappointed.

Our transfer arrived at the harbour on time, as did all our subsequent transfers. Once there, we checked in and watched the leisurely activity around the harbour. We then set off for Praslin on the ferry’s upper deck. Our rest at La Roussette certainly paid off, as some tourists were clearly showing the effects of the flight.

Our transfer to the hotel was already waiting, but when we arrived at Hotel Berjaya Praslin Beach, we were informed that the hotel had unfortunately been overbooked. As it turned out, this was not bad news for us at all, because we were accommodated at Village du Pecheur for the next 5 days. It is a lovely hotel right on Cote d‘Or, designed in the style of a village by a well-known Italian artist, with beautiful, decadent furnishings. We felt very comfortable there. We were also able to have a buffet breakfast there. Our booked half-board was served at the Berjaya Praslin Beach restaurant, directly on the beach, either as a good-quality buffet or, when there were fewer guests, as a choice from a set menu. In hindsight, we could have saved ourselves the cost of half-board, but there was only one takeaway in the small village, so our meals would have become rather repetitive. As a result, many Berjaya guests without half-board ended up eating at the Berjaya restaurant anyway. I had the best tuna and caper pizza I had eaten in years, at a reasonable price by Seychelles standards. The buffet, however, also included salad, soup and dessert.

We travelled around Praslin a great deal by bus, and our first excursion was to see the Coco de Mer in Vallée de Mai. There was not a cloud in the sky that day, and it was quite hot for pale Europeans. It was therefore very pleasant to spend more than 3 hours following the long circular trail through the shady primeval palm forest. We managed perfectly well without a guide, looking upwards to spot the female and male attributes of the Coco de Mer. But even aside from this, the circular walk was well worth doing and very relaxing, as the Coco de Mer is not all the park has to offer. Do not forget to bring water. The lemongrass lemonade and homemade cake at the park café are highly recommended.

Praslin – Coco de Mer Then it was back on the bus, into the supermarket and time to pick up some drinks. At lunchtime, we generally found it sufficient to buy small pastry pockets filled with vegetables, fish or meat for 4 rupees each – 3 or 4, depending on how hungry we were – and enjoy them on the beach. Of course, we also had a kettle in our room and could make coffee. This was sometimes provided, or could be bought inexpensively at the supermarket. A lovely long swim in the sea, with views of the islands of Chauve Souris, St. Pierre and Curieuse, rounded off the day before dinner.

The following day was devoted to Anse Lazio, which for us was the most beautiful beach on Praslin. We took the bus there in the morning and then walked up the hill. In the shade, this was no problem. Of course, to reach the sea, you then have to walk back down again – this time in the sun – but the view of the sea made it a pleasure. Anse Lazio really is a must-see on Praslin. We walked to the far end, where I went snorkelling. I was immediately rewarded with enormous batfish, which posed in front of my camera and completely filled the frame. Even a sea turtle was not deterred by my presence. With these impressions to take with us, the walk back did not feel quite so difficult.

The following day, we took an excursion to Curieuse to see the tortoises. It was truly unique, as the animals roam freely there. A real experience, as was the walk along the boardwalks through the mangroves to the barbecue beach overlooking Praslin. We also thoroughly enjoyed the barbecue, with fish, chicken, mango salad and more. We then went snorkelling at St. Pierre. It was not as successful as at Anse Lazio, but the little island in the background was absolutely perfect for photographs.

St. Pierre Rock from the water The next day, we went to the jetty and therefore to the island’s largest settlement. We had a quick look around and then enjoyed our hotel upgrade once again. The following day, we travelled to La Digue. It was a short ferry crossing of just 15 minutes.

Checking in at Guesthouse Zerof. Simple, spacious rooms without balconies, situated inland. The half-board option was very reasonably priced and highly recommended. This family-run business comprises the guesthouse, the well-known restaurant and a supermarket. The Creole food was truly excellent and served buffet-style, with a large buffet 3 times a week or, when there were fewer guests, a really good set menu. La Digue had far more takeaways for those wishing to cater for themselves. However, most bicycles do not have lights, and there is virtually no street lighting, at least not in the centre of the island. So do not forget a torch or a phone with a torch app. We felt in need of some exercise and tackled the climb to the Belle Vue viewpoint. It was extremely sweaty work and is only recommended very early in the morning or after 17:00.

Our reward was a beautiful sunset and some lovely photos of the fruit bats. The next morning, we cycled via the harbour along the north coast to Anse Fourmis, as far as the road would take us, stopping for short breaks on the beach. Beautiful, weathered granite rocks and coves. We did a little snorkelling and had fish soup with a sea view at a small restaurant.

The following day, we visited Grand Anse and Petit Anse, truly wonderful fine-sand beaches with powerful surf and plenty of opportunities to lie in the shade of the trees or granite rocks. I then went looking for the path to Anse Cocos. It starts behind the bar and is fairly well trodden. Naturally, there is then a climb over the cliffs, pleasantly shaded, and the beach is absolutely stunning. I photographed it from every angle and then headed back to my wife. On the way, I also came across one of the large millipedes.

On the third day, we ventured to Anse Source d’Argent. At first, we were annoyed by the entrance fee of 100 rupees, but honestly, it is worth it. Unfortunately, the tortoises are not allowed to roam freely, perhaps because of the possible risk of accidents involving tourists. The park is quite pleasant, but it was secondary for us. This was the most beautiful beach I had ever seen up to that point. We found a lovely granite rock and lay down in its shade. We took countless photos beside, beneath and on top of various magnificent granite rocks – the full cliché, in other words. The next day, we went in again. Absolutely superb. Apparently, there is even a discount from the third visit onwards. But then it was time for us to move on. For us, La Digue is the most beautiful island in the Seychelles, thanks to its beaches. Hopefully, it will not be our last visit. We could imagine taking a catamaran tour followed by another stay on La Digue.

But our holiday was not over yet. We still had 4 days with a hire car on Mahé, although we had already reached our verdict: we had seen paradise.

On Mahé, we stayed at Villa Dorado by Pointe au Sel, which belongs to the exclusive Crown Beach Hotel and was available at a good price. Naturally, we had half board, which we thoroughly enjoyed. The meals were served at the hotel and were superb; there were hardly any other options for self-catering nearby. Our hostess prepared a wonderful breakfast with a fruit platter and omelette for us each morning.

Collecting the car was straightforward. I was even given a vehicle one class higher at no extra cost. However, I had the impression that this was not because of my height, but because he wanted to offload the old banger on someone. But it did not bother us. They simply drew a circle around the entire vehicle, as there were scratches and dents on every corner and side. The engine ran well, though. Driving on the left meant I fumbled around with the gears, but the Kia kept going. As the buses already mentioned, along with plenty of flashy cars, were often wider than the road, I was quite glad that it was not brand new. Hiring a car is certainly possible, but you should drive very defensively. Whenever it became too narrow for my liking, I stopped – much to the annoyance of the vehicles behind me – and left it to the oncoming traffic to make the first move.

I was not the only person holding up traffic on the hills, though. Many tourists were also driving rather cautiously. The magnificent granite rocks directly beside the road were rather unnerving, as were the extremely deep ditches on the other side. We often had to continue in 1st or 2nd gear. An automatic would have been advisable, but at least I can now change gear with my left hand. We did not see any accidents, so do not let that put you off. Mahé also has plenty to offer: mountain passes like those in the Alps and beautiful natural scenery, while those who wish can explore some lovely hiking trails. The capital, and particularly its market, is also worth spending a morning in. Among the beautiful beaches we visited were Anse Intendance and Anse Soleil, with Anse Soleil coming closest to the beaches on La Digue. Unfortunately, it is only accessible by car, unless you are staying at the wonderful hotel there. We really enjoyed the Seychelles.

Mahé jungle As our flight on the final day did not depart until shortly before midnight, but we could not keep the room any longer, we were offered the option of leaving our suitcases there, using the facilities at Villa Dorado and Crown Beach, and having a shower at the end of the day. This does not always appear to be standard practice, so it is worth checking in advance. Perhaps it was also because some guests had booked independently rather than through SeyVillas, as we had. Sometimes it is good to have a strong partner at your side, without necessarily wishing to advertise SeyVillas.

Enjoy the Seychelles.
Christina and Ralf