The Seychelles – a travel journal of turquoise waves and tropical dreams come true
The Seychelles – a travel journal of turquoise waves and tropical dreams come true
It begins in effortlessly tropical fashion: the moment we step off the plane, the perfect warmth settles on our skin like a soft blanket. Never too hot, always pleasant. Still not quite settled after the long journey, we take the ferry to Praslin, which rocks us across choppy seas for a rather uncomfortable 1.5 hours.
More adventure than any stomach would like. But at the harbour, SeyVillas partner Creole Travel welcomes us with a
friendly smile, and shortly afterwards we find ourselves in our own little paradise: Les Villas D'Or. Our host Pierre radiates such calm that we automatically begin to unwind too. The cottage is charming, and our son’s bed is promptly moved into the living room – island improvisation at its finest. A transfer service whisks us to the Pirogue Restaurant & Bar, where tropical serenity meets grilled fish.
Photo: star fruit
The days on Praslin begin as they end: with pure holiday bliss. Breakfast with fresh fruit is delivered straight to us – papaya, mango and pineapple, the very essence of a holiday on a plate. Soon our hire car is waiting outside, and we set off to explore Vallée de Mai National Park. Dense jungle greets us with the sounds of the Seychelles: the mighty rustling of leaves and the shrill calls of the black parrots found
nowhere else. The enormous palms bear the legendary coco de mer – half nut, half myth and a costly souvenir. Afterwards, Fond de l'Anse (Grand Anse) beckons: a beach so vast and bright that even the red stripe of a plane taking off barely detracts from it.
Hawksbill turtle
The laid-back White Tip Divers dive centre is even within walking distance of the hotel, along the pure-white sands of Anse Volbert (Cote d'Or). The men head far out across the choppy sea for their first dives, while I happily paddle the hotel’s sea kayak through the turquoise water. Rays dart beneath me, the waves glitter all around, and a panorama usually only seen on screens stretches along the coast. Every now and then, a tropical downpour crashes dramatically from the sky, followed by vividly coloured rainbows arching overhead like stage sets. The warm rain is almost comforting. What an experience! The men emerge elated by the colourful underwater world and excitedly report seeing a hawksbill turtle and several sharks. In the evening, pizza or a burger tastes twice as good when eaten barefoot in flip-flops.
Kayaking tour on Praslin
More dives follow, along with kayaking trips past bizarre granite formations, rays at the hotel beach and a delicious dinner at Les Rochers Restaurant & Boutique, where the sun sinks into the sea as if on cue. The famous Anse Lazio is, of course, busy, as the swimming and snorkelling really are every bit as wonderful as all the guidebooks claim. It also has excellent facilities and superb restaurants. The trip to the neighbouring island of La Curieuse is an absolute must, because where else are visitors welcomed by giant tortoises curiously watching them come ashore? Any fruit brought along is gratefully devoured. The walk across the island follows boardwalks through mangrove forests and is a little challenging, but rewards us with blue crabs and lizards of every size.
Then it is on to the next island: La Digue, perhaps the most charming of the Seychelles islands, enchants us with the dreamiest beaches imaginable, paired with a lively hippie vibe and the wonderfully unhurried way of getting around – by bicycle. Cycling through palm groves brings us to the grounds of Union Estate Farm, where a
beautiful old farmhouse, an atmospheric cemetery and an enclosure of majestic giant tortoises tell the story of the island. The absolute highlight is Anse Source d'Argent, whose magical coves are framed by smooth, rounded granite boulders. Enough photo opportunities to last for hours!
Granite rocks
On the way to our favourite juice bar at the very end of Anse Severe, two giant tortoises slowly cross our path. Another photo stop before we throw ourselves into the
hammocks. Karim, who quite possibly has the warmest smile on the entire island, serves us his legendary, delicious ice-cold juices beneath the shade of takamaka trees. There is also one culinary highlight not to be missed: the fantastic coconut cheesecake at Mimi’s Café. Those seeking adventure can cycle on to Grand Anse and Petite Anse – wild, beautiful and accompanied by treacherous currents. A few brave souls venture into the surging surf, but it is best not to swim out here.
Relaxing on La Digue
After La Digue, the scenery changes: Mahé. Pineapple Beach Villas takes us by surprise – unassuming from the outside, but inside there is an enormous villa with a pool and views of the sea and a mangrove tree. Flying foxes circle at sunset, while heron chicks screech in the tree in front of the terrace. A genuine hidden gem that SeyVillas booked for us. Perfect, just like the entire trip.
The capital, Victoria, is lively, with its market and Clock Tower, yet no international chains. Instead, there are local brands and an unhurried rhythm that can even be felt while
shopping. Southern Mahé delights us with the colonial atmosphere of Le Jardin Du Roi Spice Garden: freshly baked banana cake, proper coffee and views across turquoise bays. Pool battles between father and son, rounds of table tennis and improvised aqua aerobics provide the family interludes. At the ‘Beach of the Blue Chickens’, as Anse aux Poules Bleues is poetically known, we finally find the perfect ending: kayaking, sunshine, turquoise water and one final appearance by a turtle. As if the magical natural world had sent us one last, quiet ‘See you soon’. Thank you, SeyVillas, for all the wonderful tips and flawless organisation.
We will be back.
Anse Source d'Argent, La Digue
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