Dream Holiday – Island Hopping in the Seychelles

14/01/2017 - Arrival on Mahé & transfer to Praslin

We arrived on Mahé after an approximately ten-hour non-stop flight with Condor. After collecting our luggage, we received a very friendly welcome from Creole Travel Services at the airport and were assigned a driver, who took us directly to the ferry. Our first island was Praslin, so we initially had to make the crossing by ferry. Everything worked perfectly. Just one small note: we would definitely recommend travelling on the ‘Upper Deck’, as it can become rather unpleasant ‘below deck’ if the sea is rough.

Unfortunately, the sea was particularly rough that day and we felt quite unwell. A one-hour journey can seem very long in those conditions! The fresh air does provide some relief, though. Once we arrived on Praslin, we again received a very warm welcome from CTS and were driven to our hotel, Chalets Cote Mer.

Hotel Chalets Cote Mer The vehicles were always very clean, with smart, uniformed drivers. After the friendly welcome at the hotel, we first made ourselves comfortable on the bed. The journey had been quite tiring. In the afternoon, we walked to the nearest bus stop (right by the ferry) and simply boarded the next bus to see where it would take us. We had planned to go to Cote d'Or, but it turned out that the bus was travelling in exactly the opposite direction, towards Grand Anse. The bus journey was incredibly inexpensive, costing just SRP 5 per person (approximately €0.80), regardless of the destination. Unfortunately, it was also the last bus, as a kind lady on board explained to us. We got off at a restaurant and had something to eat before an older gentleman kindly drove us back in his car for a reasonable price.

15/01/2017 – Cote D'Or
After the very generous breakfast at the hotel, we tried to do some snorkelling from the hotel’s own access point to the sea. However, the weather immediately put paid to our plans. There were thunderstorms at 30°C and torrential rain. We retreated to our hotel room. At 11:00, we were personally welcomed in the hotel lobby by our CTS representative. He gave us plenty of friendly advice about everything we could do there. We booked a catamaran tour for our third day on the island, including snorkelling at St. Pierre and a visit to the tortoises on Curieuse Island. In the afternoon, we took the bus to Cote d'Or to have a look around and buy a few things. Personally, we did not particularly like Cote d'Or, although that may also have been due to the poor weather that day. In the evening, we once again enjoyed our fabulous three-course dinner at the hotel.

16/01/2017 – Vallée De Mai
After breakfast, our plan was to visit Vallée de Mai. We took the bus (for 5 rupees) directly to the entrance of the national park. We spent approximately 4 hours surrounded by coconut palms and _hundreds of different tropical plants in what felt like untouched rainforest. The park is also home to the world-famous Coco de Mer palms, one of the symbols of the Seychelles. We were impressed by the diversity of the plants. The park is very well maintained, as are the Seychelles as a whole. There is no litter on the roads, in the towns or in the countryside! It makes you feel completely at ease. We then walked back to the hotel. After approximately 4 km, we passed through the village and eventually reached the hotel. We had dinner at the hotel again that evening.

Vallée De Mai 17/01/2017 – Catamaran tour to Curieuse
After breakfast at the hotel, overlooking Baie Ste. Anne, we were collected from reception at around 09:30 for our catamaran tour. The driver dropped us off at the ferry terminal, where CTS was already waiting to welcome us. The catamaran was also already in the harbour. The vessel was approximately 18 m long and not even a month old. The crew were very responsible and gave a highly professional impression. There was not a speck of dirt to be found anywhere on the catamaran. We travelled north towards the small island of St. Pierre. There, we were able to enter the water and snorkel for an hour. We then continued to Curieuse. A motorised inflatable boat took us ashore. When we arrived, we were greeted by giant tortoises that are allowed to roam freely there. We were able to explore a genuine wildlife sanctuary for giant tortoises, without fences or barriers.

We were then guided across the island via boardwalks, rocks and mangroves to the Doctor’s House, a restored colonial-style building with a fascinating history. At the other end of the island, we splashed about in the water before being collected again for a barbecue on the catamaran. While we were away, the crew had prepared a fantastic buffet with fish, chicken, smoked marlin salad, rice and much more. It was a truly delicious and generous meal! Chilled drinks were available from the cool box. After lunch, we sailed to Anse Georgette, where unfortunately we were unable to anchor because of the sea conditions. Instead, we stopped once more at Curieuse for some snorkelling. We then returned to Baie Ste. Anne, from where we were taken back to the hotel. A wonderful tour!

Catamaran tour

18/01/2017 – From Praslin to La Digue – Union Estate Park
After breakfast, we were collected and taken to the ferry for La Digue. Everything worked perfectly. On La Digue, a taxi took us directly to our guest house, Etoile Labrine. It was by far the loveliest place we stayed during our time in the Seychelles. The family who owned it took exceptionally warm and loving care of the property and its 10 cottages. Nothing was lacking! Our hire bicycles were delivered immediately. At times during our stay, there were only two couples staying at the property. After putting away our suitcases, we set off on our bicycles for a short tour of the island and soon found ourselves in Union Estate Park. We first stopped at the ‘Lanbousir’ restaurant there, where we restored our energy with a Creole curry and refreshed ourselves with a cider. The park is home to a vanilla plantation, a coconut mill where coconut oil is produced, a small farm growing various types of fruit and vegetables, and an enclosure for giant tortoises. It is also where you will find the famous and beautiful Anse Source d'Argent, a beach surrounded by granite boulders. In the evening, we cycled to Zerof restaurant and treated ourselves to a delicious Creole buffet.

Stray dogs on La Digue 19.01.2017 – The Three Beaches – Grand Anse, Petite Anse and Anse Cocos
Before breakfast, we explored the guesthouse’s absolutely beautiful gardens. Afterwards, we cycled to the eastern side of the island. This is where the three stunning beaches of Grand Anse, Petite Anse and Anse Cocos are located. You can cycle directly to Grand Anse, where there is also a restaurant. To reach Petite Anse, you have to walk for around 20 minutes. The path leads through impressive tropical forest, over rocks and fallen palm trees, but it is manageable even barefoot. However, if you have sensitive feet, you should at least wear flip-flops. Once you arrive at the beach, you realise why the walk was worth it. There is a small bar at Petite Anse where you can get fresh coconuts, mangoes and simple cocktails. If you order a ‘drinkable’ coconut with a straw, it costs 100 SRP, but you also receive a mango and bite-sized pieces of coconut flesh, freshly cut from the coconut. Absolutely delicious!! That morning, we had already asked our hotel to reserve a table for dinner at Belle Vue Restaurant. At exactly 17.30, we were collected directly from the hotel in a small lorry and sat on wooden benches along the sides of the loading area – a modern-day ‘covered wagon ride’. We then travelled along some adventurous and, at times, very steep roads to Belle Vue Restaurant, where we had a fantastic view across the entire island and could watch countless flying foxes in action. There was a Creole buffet, a choice of drinks and freshly prepared cocktails made with freshly squeezed fruit juices, with or without alcohol. Once it was dark and, unfortunately, had started to rain, we were collected again and dropped off at the hotel. Make sure you take cash up the mountain to pay, as unfortunately it is not possible to pay by credit card! A really lovely evening!

20.01.2017 – La Digue – The West
After breakfast, we decided to explore the rest of the island and cycled north, past the ferry terminal. The route took us past beautiful beaches, impressive granite boulders and wonderful hotels and guesthouses, all the way to the end of the road at Anse Fourmis. We made ourselves comfortable there and even spotted a tortoise contentedly eating a few leaves on the beach. On the way back, we stopped at one of the little souvenir shops and bought a few gifts to take home. Afterwards, we spent the rest of the day at Petite Anse, enjoying the waves. This time, we hiked as far as Anse Cocos, which, together with Petite Anse, was our favourite. Reaching it involves another walk of around 15 minutes, but the route is manageable and similar to the first path between Grand Anse and Petite Anse. In the evening, we first admired the sunset at Anse Union and then picked up a delicious pizza from ‘Gregoire's Pizzeria’, which, according to the owner of our guesthouse, is the best pizzeria on the island. The prices are reasonable and the pizzas are genuinely very, very tasty (we recommend the Pizza Seychellois).

21.01.2017 – ‘Bathtubs’ at Anse Coco
We returned to our two favourite beaches, Petite Anse and Anse Cocos, as we had since learnt that the famous granite ‘bathtubs’ can be found at Anse Cocos. These are natural pools in the sea, separated from the open ocean and its powerful waves by rocks. The water is crystal clear, very calm and pleasantly warm. These pools are located at the far end of Anse Cocos and are absolutely worth seeing and trying out. On the way back, we were lucky enough to meet an employee at the helicopter base, through whom we arranged a 15-minute scenic flight over the island. Simply breathtaking and an absolute must! We enjoyed dinner at our guesthouse, where we had a delicious homemade vegetable curry and the ‘catch of the day’ with side dishes and salad.

Sunset on La Digue 22.01.2017 – Anse Source D'Argent and Union Estate Park
As it was our penultimate day on the island, we decided to visit Union Estate Park once more. At Anse Source D'Argent, we met some very friendly and affectionate beach dogs, who accompanied us for almost the entire day. A wonderful experience, if you like dogs, of course. We spent the day at the beach and in the park, once again admiring the wonderful plant life and exotic fruits. We also revisited the old cemetery in the park and tried to decipher the weathered inscriptions, where enough of them remained. In the early evening, after a coffee and a slice of banana cake from the supermarket, which was very good, we returned to Anse Source d'Argent and watched the sun gradually sink into the deep-blue sea. The dogs recognised us straight away and accompanied us for part of the way again. As the pizza had been so delicious, we spontaneously decided to treat ourselves to another one from Gregoire and enjoy it in the comfort of our bungalow.

Fruit bar

23.01.2017 – Last Day on La Digue – Transfer to Mahé
Sadly, this was our final day on the beautiful little cycling island of La Digue. After breakfast, we packed our suitcases and were collected for the ferry at 10.00. Very good service – prompt and straightforward! The crossing to Praslin and then onwards to Mahé was smooth, without any rough seas. The weather was beautiful, with not a cloud in the sky. As soon as we arrived at the harbour on Mahé, we boarded the bus to our accommodation, Valmer Beach Resort, at Baie Lazare. The bus was, of course, operated by Creole Travel Services, and everything went smoothly. The hotel is beautifully situated on a hillside overlooking Baie Lazare. We received a complimentary upgrade to a better-equipped room: a bungalow with a kitchen, living room, balcony, bedroom and large bathroom. We spent the afternoon at Baie Lazare and had a buffet dinner at the hotel.

24.01.2017 – First Day on Mahé – Driving on the Left!!
After the beautifully presented breakfast buffet, we tried out our right-hand-drive car on the left-hand side of the road. Goodness, it felt like my first driving lesson! But, believe it or not, after just 15 minutes we had already got quite used to it. We drove to the nearest supermarket to stock up on water and snacks. Then we went to the petrol station. No problems at all! We continued across the island along steep roads surrounded by lush greenery, passing beautiful beaches and clean, authentic villages. Our destination was Anse Intendance. After easily parking in a woodland car park, we walked about 100 m to the beach. It was a beautiful, expansive beach. We had brought our camera drone and were able to take some very impressive aerial photographs. Afterwards, we continued along Chemin Grand Police to the southern cape, Anse Bazarca, which for us was one of the most beautiful beaches in the Seychelles. We then drove back to the hotel, stopping at a takeaway to buy our dinner. We ended the evening on the balcony of our hotel room with fish and rice we had brought back, accompanied by a cold beer.

25.01.2017 – Copolia Trail and Mission Lodge
Breakfast as usual, then we headed north over the mountain pass, past the tea plantation and towards the Copolia Trail. Just before Victoria, a steep trail leads through the rainforest to a granite outcrop around 500 m high. The walk is not strenuous, although sturdy footwear and some agility are required to negotiate the slippery roots on the way up. The final 5 m to the plateau are climbed using a small aluminium ladder. But then we were truly rewarded for the 60-minute ascent! There was an absolutely incredible panoramic view across the entire capital and towards the east. To the west, the island’s lush green mountains stretched out before us. An unforgettable view! After descending, we spotted the turning for Mission Lodge beside the mountain road on our drive back. We visited the former school right at the top of the mountain. It is essentially a collection of ruins in a glorious setting, with breathtaking views towards the sea. We returned to the hotel for dinner.

26.01.2017 – Cape Ternay and the Botanical Gardens in Victoria
After breakfast, we drove north as far as Cape Ternay. We parked in front of the barrier and walked the rest of the way along the road, past the mysterious ruins of a former children’s convalescent home, until we reached the bay. We were completely alone. The tide was out, and we were able to walk about 200 m across the sand into the bay. This is effectively the northernmost tip of Mahé. Very impressive! On either side were towering granite mountains covered in lush vegetation. Between them lay the bay, around 500 m deep, a little rough and completely deserted. It was far too windy to fly the drone, although we could have captured some truly wonderful footage here. Once back at the car, we continued along the mountain road to Victoria and the Botanical Gardens. It is a beautifully landscaped garden featuring all the plants that grow across the islands.
We enjoyed a slice of homemade banana and coconut cake with a cup of tea. On the drive back, we stopped once more at Mission Lodge and used the drone to capture beautiful aerial footage from an altitude of over 500 m. We spent the evening having dinner at the hotel.

Cape Ternay 27.01.2017 – Takamaka Distillery, Victoria
A visit to the Takamaka distillery had been planned for 28.01.2017. At exactly 10 a.m., after breakfast, we arrived at the distillery for our tour. Our guide was the managing director himself, and nobody else had turned up for the tour. So, of course, we were treated to a personal tour of the small family-run business, followed by a rum tasting. Using a mixture of German, English and French, we had a wonderful conversation and shared plenty of jokes. Afterwards, we had lunch from a takeaway and then drove back to the hotel via Beau Vallon in the north. Once there, we decided to make one more short excursion to Anse Bazarca after all. A completely deserted beach awaited us. We captured wonderful aerial footage with our drone. We were also able to take some magical aerial shots during sunset. For dinner, we had fresh fruit that we had bought from a farmer at Grand Police Bay.

Takamaka Distillery 28.01.2017 – Final Day – Victoria – Sea Turtle at Grand Police Bay
Sadly, this was our final day in the beautiful Seychelles. After a long and generous breakfast at the hotel, we packed our suitcases and left them at reception. We then drove our hire car to Victoria to visit the market. After a colourful stroll through the market and around the city, where we picked up one or two more souvenirs, we settled down at Dolce Vita, a café on the edge of the city centre, and enjoyed a cold drink. On the drive back along Sans Souci Road, we hoped the tea plantation would be open. Unfortunately, as it was a Saturday, we were out of luck. By then it had also started to rain, so on our way back to the hotel we made a brief stop at the Anchor Café on West Coast Road and had a delicious coffee. The rain had stopped, and we decided to return once more to our favourite beach at Grand Police Bay to capture a few more shots with our drone. We discovered turtle tracks in the sand. A very large sea turtle laid her eggs in the sand among the bushes before disappearing into the surf. It was one of our most wonderful experiences! We freshened up at the hotel one last time, collected our suitcases and drove to Victoria. There, we had a light bite to eat before making our way leisurely to the nearby airport to begin our journey home to cold Germany.

It was a wonderful holiday, one of our best, if not the best holiday we have ever had!