Varied and unique – honeymooning on La Digue, Praslin and Mahé

We spent our two-week honeymoon on the three Seychelles islands of La Digue, Praslin and Mahé, and booked the entire trip, apart from the flights, through SeyVillas. Everything went smoothly, and we had a wonderful, varied and unforgettable holiday. We can wholeheartedly recommend both SeyVillas and Creole Travel Services!

A few general tips to begin with: You can communicate in both English and French. At first glance, it is not obvious who speaks which language, so either listen briefly or ask. Incidentally, we noticed a great many German tourists, especially on La Digue – you hear German almost everywhere. A note on the wildlife: We had been warned in advance about the small sand crabs on the beach, which supposedly crawl around everywhere and can be bothersome when you want to spend time on the beach. We did indeed see them frequently (these transparent to white creatures come in various sizes, from as tiny as a toenail to several centimetres across – though most are roughly the size of a toe), but they were never bothersome or intrusive. They quickly retreated into the holes they burrow in the sand, never touched us or crawled over our belongings, and moved at lightning speed – at times, they almost seemed to be flying because they are so delicate and agile.

We also did not find mosquitoes any more noticeable or troublesome than in Europe. During the day, for example, we were not bothered by them at all, even when we were sweaty and completely unprotected in the middle of the jungle. In the evening, as it becomes more humid and darker, and near bushes or standing water, there are more of them (although we generally only noticed the same types of mosquitoes we know from home) – so mosquito repellent is recommended.

LA DIGUE

The island offers exactly what you imagine the Seychelles to be like. It is therefore truly representative of the island chain and should definitely be included in any trip to the Seychelles. Only here can you find the distinctive granite rock formations in all their fascinating splendour. There are also picturesque beaches with palm trees and lush green tropical plants set against the rocks, the finest white sand and turquoise-blue sea. The scenery is simply dreamlike, although it is best enjoyed from the beach, admiring the views and relaxing – rather than in the water, which here is usually either very rough (especially on the east coast), very or even too shallow and full of coral (on the north-west coast at low tide), or crowded (Anse Source d'Argent in the west). Besides the fascinating, unique landscape, the variety offered by this small island is particularly impressive. Apart from a few delivery vans and taxi shuttles, it is car-free. As well as beautiful beaches, there is also a wonderful, lush green mountainous landscape and untouched rainforest, which you pass through and experience at close quarters, particularly when cycling eastwards and hiking to Anse Cocos.

Path to Anse Cocos There are genuine vines, tropical plants and wildlife here. However, we did not encounter anything dangerous or venomous. We did not even take insect repellent with us on the short hike to the beach, despite being right in the middle of the dense vegetation (all of this can be done without a guide). You experience the nature, flora and fauna at close quarters and in a very authentic way. The atmosphere of the island is truly special and exceptionally beautiful – you should definitely explore the entire island by bicycle. Overall, around 3 days are enough to get a wonderful, well-rounded impression at a relaxed pace.

Grand Anse, La Digue Transfers

Mahé–Praslin crossing on the ‘CAT COCOS’ Island Hopper CTS, with an Upper Deck ticket (this should be booked separately so that you can sit outside on the upper deck; there are wonderful views from the front, both seated and standing, as well as a pleasant swell and sea breeze; if you are sensitive to the breeze, it is best to bring a scarf or light jacket; the ferry crossing takes around 1 hour; check-in is approximately 30 minutes beforehand; you check in your luggage at the terminal as soon as you arrive at the port and collect it again at your destination. However, on the journey from La Digue, we noticed that the luggage was not automatically labelled. It therefore had to be collected at the port during the transfer on Praslin and checked in again for the connecting ferry to Mahé. Be sure to check accordingly.

If you are prone to seasickness, you should bring travel sickness tablets; sick bags are also handed out. It did not bother us at all, and we sat and stood right at the front of the upper deck in the wind, with our hands on the railing because it does rock quite a bit out at sea. We would even have enjoyed higher waves. It is therefore entirely subjective, but something you should consider beforehand. Alternatively, you can fly to Praslin by propeller plane in around 15 minutes.

The Praslin–La Digue crossing takes around 15 minutes by catamaran; here too, an Upper Deck ticket is highly recommended (these are only available on the larger ferries; on the smaller ones, you cannot sit at the front, so you should at least try to find a seat upstairs on the side, as far forward as possible. Whenever possible, sit at the front of the outside upper deck; it is a wonderful experience if you enjoy boat trips and have good sea legs.

Chateau Saint Cloud

*** Overall, this is a very authentic, welcoming hotel. It is family-run and therefore feels a little like a guest house. The grounds are extremely well maintained, with great attention to detail. The rooms are spacious and clean. The food is good quality, although the choice and service are average. Given the lack of alternatives and the acceptable value for money on La Digue, we would recommend it, even though we were not particularly impressed by the service.

Rooms

Spacious, well-maintained rooms with plenty of storage space, a large bathroom and a large walk-in shower. Fresh bars of soap were provided regularly, while toiletries such as body lotion and shampoo were only supplied on the first day. Towels were replaced daily; the beds were comfortable, with two pillows each and one large, lightweight blanket in total. Large balcony with high-quality wooden furniture (bench, chairs and table) and a fixed washing line. The room also had a fan and air conditioning, as well as a fridge, kettle and coffee. Tip: In the evening, always close the doors and windows and switch on the air conditioning and fan to keep mosquitoes away – then you will not need insect repellent in the room either.

Grounds

A welcoming, relatively small, family-run hotel complex; very authentic, idyllic and well maintained, with great attention to detail; fresh flowers in the water features and fountains, changed daily; wonderful, quite dense planting of native species (you feel as though you are staying in a lodge in the middle of the jungle), traditional style and materials (dark wood, palm leaves, etc.); attractively designed, with a small pool and lovely furnishings. The reception staff in particular were very friendly; pool and beach towels could be exchanged at reception every two days (tip: it is better to check well in advance, as fresh towels are not always available); reception is staffed daily until 18:00, after which members of staff are available in the restaurant; half-board dining is available in the restaurant from 18:30, as is an à la carte option; unfortunately, check-out on the day of departure is as early as 10:00; bicycle hire is available at the hotel for around SCR 130 per bicycle per day, including a bicycle lock and a basket on the back (note: there are no lights, so be sure to bring a head torch or ordinary torch for the evenings).

Dining

Breakfast is served daily until 10:00, although items are no longer replenished after around 09:15. However, yoghurt is always available from the fridge at the cooking station on request, as are freshly prepared egg dishes. There is fresh local fruit (coconut, papaya, grapefruit, pineapple and melon), a cooking station for egg dishes, pastries, three types of muesli, toast, jam and butter, bacon, and sometimes potato fritters or beans. Coffee and tea are served and topped up (note: service in the Seychelles is generally less attentive; you sometimes have to attract the staff’s attention and ask specifically if you would like something, rather than taking anything for granted). Crockery at the buffet was also frequently unavailable, as were some dishes, and we had to point this out specifically to the staff. Dinner is served between around 19:00 and 21:00; half board is also available. There is usually a set four-course menu served at the table. The quality, flavour and portion sizes were good. The price was relatively high, at around €40 per person.

Beaches

Path to Anse Cocos Grand Anse: a fairly long main beach in the south-east; there is a restaurant by the main entrance to the beach, open until 15:00; no sun loungers; very fine white sand; very rough sea and unsuitable for swimming, but pleasantly breezy; at the left-hand end of the beach when facing the sea, beside the foot of the rocks, there is a stall selling fresh coconuts, juices and so on: 1 drinking coconut with a hibiscus flower plus 1 eating coconut with sliced star fruit for SCR 100 (very friendly, excellent quality and superb value for money); note: it is quieter in the evenings and the light is particularly beautiful for taking photos by the rocks at the left-hand end.

Anse Cocos: from the left-hand end of Grand Anse, take the small turn-off (a narrow trail) by the large rock in the final quarter of the beach and follow the path through the jungle for around 5 minutes; head uphill, then take the first opportunity immediately to the right, going up and then back down again; always keep right and follow the path (note: do not do what we did and continue straight ahead before wandering through the thickest rainforest, with tropical plants, lianas and so on, without a path; without enough to drink or any mosquito repellent, this can end in panic, although we were not bitten by anything and nothing will happen if you remain calm); after descending a slightly steep path, you will see the large bay of Anse Cocos; there are several shaded spots beneath makeshift shelters made from palm leaves and wood; coconut water is also sold here, but note that it is quite expensive at SCR 100 per coconut and the quality is not good; the sand is also very fine and beautiful, although the sea is similarly rough; lovely for photos and slightly more secluded and smaller than Grand Anse, but there is no major difference; if you continue further left beyond the beach when facing the sea, you will reach natural seawater pools (although we did not try these ourselves); sturdy footwear, or preferably reef shoes, is recommended for the short walk along the rocky, unsecured path through the jungle.

Grand Anse, La Digue Anse Source d'Argent: access is only possible with a ticket, as the most famous of all the island’s beaches lies within the national park; buy a ticket from the counter beyond the entrance gate for SCR 120 per person per day; the park contains all kinds of local plantations, including vanilla and bananas, as well as a large number of giant tortoises, which are quite trusting and can be fed leaves over the low wall; everything is signposted throughout the fairly extensive park, including the route to the beach; bicycles have to be left by the sign after the boat-hire point; the path to the beach is quite long; there are also various bars selling drinks and so on along the way; the beach stretches for quite some distance, and you can find a lovely spot almost anywhere, sometimes directly beneath shady trees or out in the sun; there are beautiful, fascinating granite rock formations throughout, with small sandy coves in between; in some places the sea is quite shallow, while elsewhere it is rougher; at the very end of the path is the relatively large bay with the well-known rock formation seen in adverts; this is a good place for swimming; the sand is very fine and white throughout; as the beach is on the western side and the whole setting is so idyllic, with many small, inviting spots dotted along this lengthy stretch, it is an excellent place to watch the sunset; it is also less crowded after 16:00 and in the morning than during the day, when day-trippers arrive by boat, although it is still relatively busy; by sunset it becomes genuinely quiet, and you can find a fairly secluded spot; a dreamlike setting – truly romantic and fascinating, with the rock formations and native vegetation silhouetted against the red evening sky and shifting clouds; the water is still warm in the evening and, thanks to its depth at high tide, even despite the gentle waves. ANSE SEVERE: wonderfully fresh coconut water (SCR 50) and shakes/freshly blended fruit juices in 0.4-litre cups (SCR 100) from the ‘Sunset Bar’ beach stall, run by a lovely middle-aged local woman with short curls and a friendly, fairly young man with a Jamaican look, just before ‘Takamaka Café’ – excellent quality and the best value for money; note: if you ask to have the coconut split open after drinking it, you can use a piece of shell to scrape out and eat the soft, slightly jelly-like flesh – absolutely delicious and a tip from the bartender; fruit and eating coconuts are also available here; there are a few seats by the road, as well as 2 sun loungers beneath the shade of the trees directly on the long, fairly narrow beach, overlooking the sea and Praslin, which you may use if you order drinks (you pay when you leave); this is a good place for snorkelling, as the water is fairly shallow and calm; at low tide you have to walk a very long way out and should definitely wear reef shoes because the seabed is rocky with coral – it is therefore best to check the high-tide times beforehand and swim then, as the entrance to the water is sandy near the shore and the coral there is also less sharp; further out to sea, it becomes rockier and there are sea urchins.

HOTEL BEACH

: at the entrance to La Passe when arriving from Anse Severe, there is a small beach on the right with luxurious cushioned sun loungers, day beds with white curtains, armchairs and so on; it apparently belongs to the adjoining upmarket ‘L’Orangerie’ hotel, but can be used free of charge if you order drinks from the bar, which are brought to your seat; Wi-Fi and parasols are also available; however, the sand is less fine and only a small bay is sectioned off for swimming; boats moor beyond it; a good option if you would like somewhere comfortable to lie down and use the internet – otherwise, it is less idyllic and more like an upmarket beach club; on the other hand, it is a very good place for swimming, as the entrance to the sea is sandy rather than coral-covered, and there are no waves thanks to the barrier formed by the rocks in the sea; the water is also an ideal depth.

OTHER SMALL BEACHES: Continuing north from Anse Severe, a few hundred metres further on, there is a small but very beautiful, idyllic beach or cove on the left, directly on the coast below a smaller hotel. It also appears to be a good place for swimming; access is via steps and is not restricted. There are several more lovely beaches along the coast, as well as restaurants on the right, each with wonderful views from their terraces. The first belongs to a hotel and is slightly elevated, ‘Hotel L’Ocean’, while the other, shortly before the end of the road, feels more like a beach bar and is directly opposite a beach.

Surroundings

You should definitely explore the island by bicycle on your first day to get your bearings. It is best simply to follow the main routes, pass through La Passe and cycle north along the coastal road to the end of the road in the north-east. Then turn back and take the other turning towards La Passe at La Réunion to explore the east. This route leads through the island’s interior, where animals roam freely, so take care when cycling, and through the jungle to Grand Anse beach. A word of warning: high up in the air, but directly above the road between the electricity poles and cables, there are large webs with enormous spiders. The best way to get around is by bicycle, as walking the distances takes too much time. There are generally no cars, apart from the occasional golf cart and a very small number of delivery vans or taxis. People and luggage are also transported to their accommodation on large, covered wooden carts or trailers, pulled either by oxen or, as ours was, by a motor vehicle. There was hardly any street lighting after dark, so always take a torch or, even better, a head torch. Dogs, chickens, cockerels, chicks, cats, various birds and enormous bats roam freely, even during the day; these bats are apparently known as ‘flying foxes’. There are also some cows. They are all harmless and not intrusive. Even the dogs simply remain calmly standing or lying on or beside the road as you pass, so do not be startled or unsettled. Just take care not to run over a chicken or chick, as they move very slowly. Around La Passe, you may also encounter tortoises, which sometimes cross the road or lie in the sun at the roadside. By far our sweetest animal encounter, however, was a dog lying by the roadside with a small kitten, the two of them affectionately curled up together and nuzzling one another. La Passe is the largest village and has a supermarket, post office, shops, places to eat and more. When leaving La Passe heading north towards Anse Severe, you pass a very beautiful, colourful cemetery on the hillside to the right. A few things to note: you should be prepared to be woken early in the morning by crowing cockerels, some of which are quite loud. It did not particularly bother us and we were able to go back to sleep, but light sleepers would be better off bringing earplugs. Also bear in mind that traffic drives on the left, so take care when cycling, walking or simply standing around beside the road. The bicycles do not have bells either, so proceed carefully and make your presence known with sounds or calls. The main routes are paved or tarmacked, but in places they run directly through genuine rainforest with lianas and tropical plants, which is very impressive. Take care, as there are some very steep drops and almost none of the routes have barriers. Some sections are also so steep that you have to dismount and push your bicycle.

Food and drink

There is a large supermarket in La Passe, the island’s largest village, close to the national park. There is also a church and a school here, as well as numerous holiday apartments. Please note that, as you should always lock up your bicycle and take your bags with you, you leave your luggage with the attendant at the entrance. They give you a numbered token corresponding to the compartment where your bag is stored, and you receive it back from them in exchange for the token when you leave.

Elsewhere, the smaller villages have little shops selling drinks and a few groceries. These can sometimes be difficult to spot at first, as they look more like small stalls or kiosks. Please note that shops usually remain open only until 18:00, or 20:00 at the latest. There are two good restaurants by the harbour, one of which also offers takeaway food. You can eat fresh fish or other local dishes here, such as various curries with chutney, while enjoying a lovely setting directly beside the coast. Restaurants are relatively expensive, although a service charge is generally already included. Alternatively, there are quite a few takeaways, where you can usually eat outside at simple tables and chairs. Dishes such as chicken curry or local fish cost considerably less there, around €4–5. Freshly blended juices made with local fruit are also available almost everywhere, although they are usually relatively expensive at €4–6. One good option was the ‘Gala’ takeaway near La Réunion, on the route from the tourist area towards the turning for Grand Anse and the island’s interior, where our hotel, Château Saint Cloud, was located.

Praslin

The island is considerably larger and hillier than La Digue. It also seems to have more rainforest. The beaches were more expansive and, compared with La Digue, especially Anse Source d’Argent, less crowded. There are also more, and above all better, opportunities for swimming, as La Digue is more suited to surfing or snorkelling. On the other hand, Praslin has far fewer granite rocks and is much more densely populated, so overall it has slightly less charm than La Digue when compared directly.

Anse Lazio, Praslin Transfer

The crossing from La Digue to Praslin takes around 15 minutes by catamaran ferry. It is a wonderful experience if you enjoy boat trips and do not suffer from seasickness. Boarding generally begins around 30 minutes beforehand, and the ferry departs punctually. It is recommended that you arrive 1 hour in advance, although 30 minutes is sufficient. Bear in mind, however, that you will need to queue for boarding and may have to check in your luggage. Those who arrive first also secure the best seats.

HOTEL CASTELLO BEACH **** We can definitely recommend this hotel. Particularly with the honeymoon special, it offers good value for money. The rooms were large, comfortable, tastefully furnished and clean. The grounds were very well maintained, small, welcoming and peaceful. The service was very friendly and good. The restaurant was in an exceptionally beautiful location and attractively furnished; the food was of good quality, with a good selection and flavour. The location was also excellent, with direct beach access, complimentary comfortable sun loungers and sea suitable for swimming. A bus stop and supermarkets are also only a few minutes’ walk away. Rooms

We had a large family room as part of the honeymoon offer, located on the upper floor of the first accommodation block, at the far right-hand end (the second of two floors). Unless travelling with small children, I would definitely recommend the upper floors, as they offer considerably more privacy: no one walking past at the front can see into the living area with the children’s beds, and the balcony of room #7 cannot be overlooked from outside either. The same applies to the bathroom and bedroom windows. The advantage is that you do not need to close the shutters, so you always have natural light. There are no blinds, only shutters throughout, including on the doors. The family room was very spacious and clean. The children’s beds are in the living area and can be used conveniently as additional surfaces. There is also a large wardrobe with plenty of storage space and enough coat hangers for two people. Larger groups should bring additional hangers. The wardrobe also contained a fridge with two complimentary bottles of water on arrival. As another welcome gift included in the honeymoon offer, we received a chilled bottle of sparkling wine with glasses and a large fruit platter. The entire room had also been decorated very thoughtfully and generously with hibiscus flowers. Another very positive feature was that the bathroom was replenished daily with fresh flannels and towels for the face, hands, body and floor, with suitable rails and holders for each. There were also plenty of surfaces and a bidet. Toiletries included body lotion, shampoo and shower gel in fixed dispensers in the spacious walk-in shower, which had a fixed overhead shower. Cotton pads, a sewing kit and a shower cap were also provided. A kettle, coffee and crockery were available in ample quantities and were very well maintained

Grounds

: a small, welcoming and very well-maintained property with one- and two-storey buildings in a traditional style, featuring dark wood and warm colours. There is attractive planting, while at the centre of the grounds is a lovely pool with comfortable sun loungers and seating, as well as several pavilions with upholstered seating and, in some cases, curtains. The restaurant, which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, is directly beside the pool area and reception. Both the pool area and restaurant are right next to the beach. You can therefore dine in the slightly elevated, covered outdoor area of the restaurant, almost directly on the beach. This area can be enclosed in poor weather. On the beach, hotel guests can use the very comfortable, cushioned wooden sun loungers free of charge, and there are also a few small granite tables. All the loungers are in the upper section, on a rocky ledge covered with some sand and level with the hotel grounds. There is a beautiful view of the neighbouring island and the open sea.

BEACH: As only hotel guests used this area, it was never crowded and always felt wonderfully relaxed. The sand here is rather coarse and stony, and the ground is quite hard, though this does not matter when lying on a sun lounger. The trees also provide natural shade. If you prefer the sun, you can move the loungers further forwards. Steps lead down to a small cove beneath the rocky ledge, with fine sand and access to the sea. There are hardly any stones at the entrance to the water, which becomes deep fairly quickly. It is well suited to swimming, although the sea was slightly choppy: calmer at low tide and rougher at high tide or in stronger winds, but always suitable for swimming. At high tide, the sandy section almost disappears completely. When the tide is not as high, you can also see another narrow strip of sand to the right of the rocks extending into the water, which form a natural boundary; steps lead down to each section. At the far right-hand end of the beach area with the sun loungers, there is another set of steps leading down to a beautiful, small and secluded cove at low tide, which you can have entirely to yourself. It has fine sand and is framed by granite boulders and attractive, lush green plants. A tip: if you continue beyond the left-hand side of the beach and walk a few hundred metres along the Anse Kerlan coast, crossing two stone boundaries with steps, you will reach a beautiful, small and idyllic cove with characteristic granite rocks and palm trees. This stretch of beach is also clearly visible from the sea, so you will immediately recognise which one is meant. However, it is usually frequented by quite a few local people, so unlike the other small sections to the right, you are unlikely to have it to yourself. When swimming, take care not to venture too far out because of the currents, while still keeping a reasonable distance from the shore so that you swim beyond the point where the waves break. There is a pavilion directly on the beach, roughly in the middle, and another with upholstered seating to the right, where the hotel grounds meet the beach. Both are wonderful places from which to watch the sunset in the evening.

Food and drink

: Breakfast from 07:30–10:00 in the traditional restaurant, which enjoys a wonderful location by the beach with the pool area just beyond. The permanently roofed outdoor terrace has individual side panels that can be closed, although they were always open, and is not air-conditioned – so you can dress for the outdoor temperature and do not need a light jacket. Thanks to the pleasant breeze, the elevated location and the open design, it was never too hot either. At all times of day, the tables were elegantly and neatly laid with fabric tablecloths, fabric napkins, porcelain salt and pepper shakers, cutlery and a plate with a bread knife. Everything, including the seating, was of a high quality. The only artificial feature in the grounds was the floral arrangements on the tables, although this seems to be common here, as we noticed it in several places across the islands. The service was attentive. At breakfast, everything is self-service from the buffet, including drinks. As well as coffee, there was a wide selection of teas and juices. A chef freshly prepares various egg dishes on request, while the hot buffet offered a slightly different selection each day, including bacon, baked beans, tomatoes, mushrooms, scrambled eggs and fried noodles. The chilled display usually contained smoked salmon and tuna, cold meats, cheese, tomatoes and yoghurt. There were also cereals and toppings such as dried local fruit, nuts and sultanas, as well as jam, butter and more. We were particularly impressed by the large selection of fresh fruit, including kiwi, papaya, pineapple, passion fruit, melon, banana and guava. As a rule, there was still some of everything available until the end of breakfast, or it was replenished. However, the fruit selection became slightly smaller each day, and during the final few days there were only two or, at most, three different varieties left if you arrived after 09:00. Dinner is served in the restaurant from 19:00–21:30. It is usually a buffet, but is served as a set menu when fewer guests are expected. There were no empty serving dishes, and everything always looked tidy. The food generally tasted good and was attractively presented. It was not always cooked to the ideal degree, but unfortunately that is often the case with buffets. The selection was perfectly adequate, though nothing exceptional: the main courses always included several different types of meat, a seafood or fish option, and a vegetarian dish. There were usually only one or, at most, two side dishes, but this was sufficient, as some of the starters – generally salad variations or local so-called chutneys – could also be combined with the main courses. There was always a soup and around three different desserts: invariably fruit and a cream-based dessert, accompanied by flan, tartlets, cake or something similar. The traditional dishes made with local ingredients were by far the best. With half board, breakfast and dinner are included; otherwise, dinner generally costs between 600 and 700. Drinks must be paid for separately in the evening. The service was very attentive and friendly. Partly finished bottles of wine can be kept for you until the following day. The Honeymoon Special also includes a candlelit dinner, served on the final evening in the romantic pavilion between the pool and the beach, with the table beautifully decorated with fresh flowers and candles.

Anse Kerlan, Castello Beach Surroundings

VALLÉE DE MAI National Park: We visited the national park on a rainy day, travelling independently by public bus without a group or guide. The bus stop is very close to the park. When travelling from Anse Kerlan, it is above the park, so after the entrance; from the direction of Côte d’Or and the harbour, it is below the park, also after the entrance. Admission cost 350 per person. There are free, clean toilets, souvenir shops and a café near the entrance. We can highly recommend visiting when it is raining: it was quiet, and in many parts of the park we felt as though we were alone in the rainforest. It was also easy to take photographs without crowds of people in the background. The large leaves and dense forest provide protection from the rain as well. Some places are a little muddy, but the entire walk is easily manageable without an umbrella. We explored without a tour guide, although it also seems possible to join a guided tour in various languages at short notice, with prices apparently varying. However, if, like us, you simply want an impression of the local rainforest, vegetation, flora and fauna, as well as the famous Coco de Mer, around 1 hour is enough to stroll through the park independently. There are three different trails, all signposted at regular intervals. Along the trails, you will also find multilingual information boards, including German, with explanations about the park. There is also a viewing platform in the park, on the Circular North Way, from which you can look out over the park and even see the sea in the distance. We also saw several local birds at very close range here. Anse Kerlan, Castello Beach BEACHES CASTELLO BEACH HOTEL BEACH AT ANSE KERLAN: see above; in general, there are many beautiful stretches of beach along the Anse Kerlan coast. These are usually all accessible to the public from the road via small paths, or alternatively along the beach using steps built into the rock embankments, which act as natural boundaries and provide protection from the waves.

ANSE GEORGETTE: a gorgeous beach with beautiful surroundings and hardly any waves; ideal for swimming and taking photographs. The beach belongs to the Lemuria Hotel. You must register in advance, preferably through your own hotel or tour guide, and book a time slot, which is then checked at the gate. Unfortunately, we were unable to secure a slot at short notice, 4 days beforehand. You should therefore book well in advance if you are particularly keen to visit.)

PETITE ANSE KERLAN: Judging by the recommendations and photographs, this beach is also said to be very beautiful and idyllic, but it is small and can therefore become crowded quickly. Unfortunately, we were unable to visit it ourselves, as it is apparently only accessible to hotel guests.

ANSE LAZIO: Overall, the most beautiful beach we have ever seen as experienced travellers. There are several reasons for this: it is very spacious, so it never feels overcrowded, and you can always find a private spot to suit your preferences. There is a wide variety of places to settle: you can lie in full sun on the main stretch of beach, enjoy the natural shade provided by the vegetation along the entire beach, or find a spot between the rocks at either end. Facing the sea, there are several smaller stretches of beach on the left, naturally separated by rocks into little coves but easily accessible via small paths. The beautiful shell sand is wonderfully fine and white. It even glistens slightly when the sun shines on it. The turquoise sea is particularly idyllic too: incredibly clear and clean, with fish sometimes visible close to shore, and without much swell. It is a wonderful place for swimming; we particularly enjoyed swimming along the entire coast from one end to the other, as this is the best way to admire the magnificent scenery, which can only be seen from this perspective out at sea – with lush green mountains and fascinating rock formations in the background, impressive fruit bats above the trees, and wonderful granite formations framed by palm trees and tropical plants. Entering the sea is also very pleasant, as the seabed consists of fine sand rather than stones. The water is very shallow for the first few metres before becoming deeper, so children should be kept under close supervision. The beach offers something for everyone, whether you enjoy walks along the shore, swimming, snorkelling around the large rocks by the coves to the left and right, sunbathing, relaxing comfortably in the shade, climbing on rocks or taking photographs. There are also beach restaurants set back from the shore, near the free car parks. The beach itself is completely undeveloped, and the picturesque landscape is 100% authentic and unspoilt. A few tips: as at virtually all public beaches, there are no sun loungers, so be sure to bring a beach towel. You do not need particularly sturdy footwear for the beach or the journey there. From the bus stop, you have to walk for around 20 minutes along a hilly route, but it follows a paved road. However, the climb is fairly strenuous and partly exposed to the sun, so expect to work up a sweat and avoid bringing too much bulky luggage. The bus stop is called ‘Anse Boudin’ and is located on a bend just beyond the beach of the same name. There is no sign, but it is easy to recognise because it is quite large and has a small brick shelter, directly opposite a guest house. You can also take a taxi to the bus stop for around SCR 100, although it may be worth negotiating, as the distance by car really is very short. The most comfortable option is to travel in your own car or a hire car. Parking is available all along the road behind the beach.

FURTHER IMPRESSIONS You see a lot of cars, although they are often driven rather chaotically on the frequently narrow, winding roads. If you have a hire car, you should drive very carefully. We witnessed an accident in which a car was thrown sideways across the road following a collision and came to rest with more than half of it hanging over an unsecured drop dozens of metres deep – fortunately, it narrowly escaped falling. Travelling by bicycle is not recommended because of the mountainous landscape, long distances and narrow roads; indeed, you do not see anyone cycling. The options are therefore either a hire car for €40–50 per day or the bus, costing around €0.70 per person per journey, or approximately 10 in local currency. Be sure to take the blue buses, as the others are private vehicles or taxis. In general, it is best to avoid taxis. We were frequently approached by taxi drivers, particularly at bus stops, but despite claiming to offer a good price, they usually charge far too much by comparison, making a hire car better value. A hire car also has the advantage of getting you to your chosen destination much more quickly than the bus and, above all, allowing you to park directly there. From the bus stop, you generally still have quite a distance to walk to reach the beaches and other attractions. If you would like to visit several beaches or places in one day and remain flexible with your schedule, you should hire a car.

TRAVELLING BY BUS: An experience you should definitely try at least once. There are three bus routes: 61, 62 and 63. Please note that not every bus on these routes travels all the way to the terminus, so always check the destination displayed above the route number on the bus. The last buses generally run between 18:00 and 19:00. Services are less regular at weekends. There are no fixed times as such; the timetable only lists departure times from the respective termini, which serve as a rough guide. You will generally wait between 15 and 40 minutes. A single journey costs 5–10, regardless of how long you remain on the bus. You pay the driver when boarding, and change is provided. A journey on route 61, for example, can take around 1.5 hours from start to finish. If you wish to board, wait at a place where ‘Bus Stop’ is painted in white on the road and wave when a bus approaches. There are no other signs at the stops – no names or timetable information – although some at least have a shelter. If you wish to get off, call out ‘évan’ shortly before your chosen stop, as we saw the locals do. There is no other way to ask the driver to stop; the bus does not automatically stop at bus stops or the areas loosely marked as such. The buses are quite small, slightly larger than a Volkswagen camper van, and clearly rather old. They generally have rows with two seats on one side and three on the other. There are no seat belts, and due to the wild driving style, numerous bends and unsecured roads, it is advisable to hold on to the handle on the seat in front, even while the bus is moving. The buses had sliding windows, which were usually open. This provided a constant breeze, so it never became too hot. There were also small, extremely old-fashioned fans operated by switches. However, these did not work on any of our journeys, although they were not needed anyway.

MAHÉ TRANSFER The crossing from Praslin to Mahé once again took around 1 hour aboard the ‘CAT COCOS’ Island Hopper CTS with an Upper Deck ticket. From there, the transfer to the hotel by the tour operator’s minibus was also completely straightforward.

KEMPINSKI SEYCHELLES RESORT BAIE LAZARE HOTEL ***** A very attractive, well-maintained and spacious luxury hotel complex built in the local style, using natural materials and indigenous plants. The service is consistently attentive and courteous, the rooms are tastefully furnished, and it is a wonderful place to unwind. Its location directly on the hotel’s private beach is ideal, with only a short distance between the rooms and the comfortable sun loungers, where drinks service is available. The food is of a high standard, with an extensive selection, and tastes very good. Overall, it is certainly recommended as accommodation on Mahé.

At the Kempinski on Mahé ROOMS: The rooms were very luxurious and stylishly furnished. They were arranged over two levels, with two steps separating the living area, which had a sofa, armchair, table, TV and access to the balcony, from the sleeping area with its large bed and chest for pillows and blankets. The bed could be completely enclosed by a mosquito-net curtain, which during the day was elegantly tied around the posts like a four-poster bed. The bathroom had a large window facing the bed, with wooden blinds that could be adjusted manually. In the hallway area, which had a desk and comfortable chair, there was a Nespresso coffee machine with four fresh capsules provided daily, as well as high-quality crockery, coffee-making accessories, tea and a kettle. There was also a fridge. The minibar was fully stocked on the first day, and the initial contents were complimentary. Two 0.5-litre bottles of still water were also provided free of charge each day. Every evening, room service brought additional fresh water. Various toiletries and face cloths were replenished daily as well. Bathrobes and slippers were also provided, along with plenty of towels in various sizes and two separate towels for the large bath, which came with special bath salts. This was the only hotel we had stayed at in the Seychelles so far where the large walk-in shower had an additional flexible handheld shower head with a hose, alongside the fixed overhead shower. Next to the toilet there was also a special, flexible integrated bidet spray. The illuminated wardrobe contained plenty of coat hangers for two people, including slim padded hangers for high-quality, delicate garments. The balcony was furnished with two high-quality padded armchairs and a solid-wood table made from a tree stump; we had a sea view. The sea is approximately 100 m from the accommodation buildings as the crow flies. Between them is a lawn, followed by the sunbathing area on the sandy stretch beneath the trees, which include native deciduous trees, shrubs and palms. As a honeymoon special, we were welcomed with a bottle of sparkling wine and fruit in our room.

GROUNDS: The resort is divided into adjoining two-storey accommodation blocks, each comprising 12 units per floor. These are separated again in the middle by a passageway, creating four sections in total. The ground-floor units have a terrace with their own sun loungers. The beach can be reached directly from each accommodation block by crossing the lawn. The reception is reached via the covered walkway on the other side of the buildings. Along the path and throughout the grounds, there are beautiful tropical plants everywhere, which were tended daily. Immediately behind the buildings is untouched natural scenery, with impressive, towering granite mountains abundantly covered in native green vegetation. The entire hotel complex is secluded from the nearest village and secured. The gatehouse and barrier are several hundred metres from the actual hotel entrance. You first drive for a few minutes along the hotel’s private road through the countryside. The grounds also include a lake in an exceptionally idyllic setting, which merges directly into the resort area and is accessible to guests. There is also a horse paddock and a tortoise enclosure beside the lake. The approximately 50-metre-long pool, which is ideal for swimming, almost adjoins the lake and offers a beautiful view across it. Behind this is the two-storey main building, with a spacious lobby whose style is reminiscent of a tropical airport terminal. This is also where you will find, among other things, the two main restaurants, the bar, shops and a large lounge area with a billiards table and tea station. Between the pool and the beach is the beach restaurant, where à la carte meals are available throughout the day. Throughout the grounds, along the path between the lawn and the beach, there are pavilions staffed by pool attendants, where you can collect fresh towels as often as you wish. The stations are staffed until 18:00. You can either leave the towels on your sun lounger for the staff to clear away or place them in the container for used towels. The staff sometimes also helped arrange the towels on the loungers. They regularly brought complimentary carafes of still water with ice and lemon, along with lids and high-quality plastic tumblers. The staff were very attentive and kept replenishing the water. Occasionally, someone also walked around handing out small snacks. The sun loungers were exceptionally comfortable, with thick, high-quality padding. They could be adjusted to several heights very easily, and the towels were so long and wide that they extended well beyond the lounging area.

BEACH: The hotel has its own beach, which is very well maintained. The bay is very wide, open and long. It is lovely for a stroll, with superb views across the open sea and the surrounding green mountains, as well as several granite rocks to the right and, in the distance to the left, the adjoining ‘Baie Lazare’ beach. Please note: unfortunately, on the left-hand side of the beach you can only walk as far as the point where accommodation area 2 ends. It is separated from area 1 by a large wall, gate and security staff; as we learnt, this area is the investors’ ‘Private Property’. This division is not visible from the beach or the sea; you only become aware of it when you see the lifeguard hut, which serves the private area only, and the security staff level with the vegetation. As soon as you approach the boundary, a security guard jumps up and turns you away. If you swim too close to the boundary in the sea, the lifeguard blows his whistle vigorously and directs you back the other way. The sand is white and varies in texture, being slightly coarser in some places than others. Overall, it is good, although there are certainly better beaches in the Seychelles. Entering the sea is not equally comfortable everywhere. Around the pool area, there are fewer stones and the sand is particularly soft. However, you can enter the sea with little difficulty almost everywhere, and beach shoes are not required. The water becomes deep quite quickly, and throughout our stay there was always either a yellow or red flag. The sea was therefore fairly rough, although it was still possible to swim. Approximately 100 m from the shore, the waves break quite strongly, and we occasionally saw surfers there. The seabed between this ‘reef’ and the shore is interspersed with rocks, coral and so on, but after the first few metres these were deep enough not to cause injury while swimming. Some people were also snorkelling.

Please note: presumably due to the currents and marine environment, unpleasant sea creatures are occasionally washed ashore as well. Although there were no visible or generally dangerous animals, while swimming I was apparently stung by jellyfish larvae, spores or something similar. This felt like brief, fine pinpricks in various places across my body, which caused no further discomfort at the time and did not prevent me from continuing to swim. It was only approximately 12–24 hours later that small pustules appeared in these areas. They began to itch and usually occurred in clusters of at least three in one area.

Baie Lazare on Mahé DINING: There was the main restaurant, ‘Café Lazare’, with an indoor area (no air conditioning, just fans; there is no need for a jacket, as the temperature is barely any different from outdoors) and a covered outdoor terrace, serving buffet breakfast and dinner from 07:00–10:30. Everything was regularly replenished right up until the end and attractively presented. Everything was very well maintained and tidy. Alternatively, guests could dine à la carte at the beach restaurant (outdoor seating only) without a reservation, or at the elegant ‘Indochine’ restaurant (indoor and outdoor seating) with a reservation. With half board, €40 per person per visit is included, with any remaining balance payable separately. All drinks except water (still and sparkling available) must be paid for, including in the buffet restaurant. We only tried the buffet, as the theme changed every evening and the food was very good, while the restaurant prices were comparatively high.

BREAKFAST: Drinks were always included here too: fresh orange juice or, alternatively, mixed fruit juice was poured from large carafes by the staff, while all varieties of coffee (by illy) were brought directly to the table and topped up as well. Various other drinks, such as iced coffee, water flavoured with fresh ingredients and homemade lemonades, were available from dispensers, as was sparkling wine with fresh fruit slices. You could also squeeze your own orange juice. We were particularly impressed by the juice station, where you could make your own vegetable juice from a wide variety of vegetables and flavourings (e.g. carrots, cucumber, celery, tomatoes, peppers, spinach, sauerkraut, lemons, etc.) using a high-powered juicer. There was also a live cooking station for egg dishes, which were brought directly to the table once ordered. Otherwise, there was a wide selection of fruit, pastries, and hot and cold dishes, including typical options from the guests’ main countries of origin (so there was always something Asian, such as dumplings, and something Arabic, such as dhal). As a rule, everything remained available right up until the end. DINNER: Every evening had a different theme and offered a large selection of very good-quality, flavoursome food. There were always several dishes prepared to order at the live cooking station, and these were consistently particularly good.

ISLAND The island is very large compared with the others, and hiring a car is definitely recommended for getting around. It is said to have some impressive waterfalls and to be ideal for hiking. However, as we had already seen a great deal on the two islands of La Digue and Praslin, and were staying at an exceptionally luxurious hotel resort with its own beach, we spent all four days there.

ORGANISATION/LOCAL REPRESENTATIVES Creole Travel Services Our local representative Lara on La Digue was fantastic! She responded very quickly and kindly via WhatsApp when we asked for her help in rebooking our ferry ticket to Praslin. She arranged everything in no time and then sent us the new itinerary as an image file, also via WhatsApp. Without our even asking, she also sent us an overview with useful tips and information about La Digue, along with a personalised map to help us find our way around the island, with relevant locations marked. Excellent service – extremely helpful, friendly, reliable and quick; she is even a native German speaker. Highly recommended, and a huge thank you!

Here on Praslin, we also have a friendly and helpful local representative, Mikaela, whom we can reach easily and reliably via WhatsApp. The same applies to Desina on Mahé. Everything organised locally by Creole Travel Services so far has gone smoothly. On arrival at the airport, we were warmly welcomed and found our contacts straight away. We received a useful overview map of the islands, information about possible excursions and the contact details of our local representative. The transfers between the islands and hotels worked brilliantly, and all we had to do was present the vouchers we had printed before leaving Germany, some of which were then exchanged directly with staff locally. Our luggage was also checked in and stored temporarily without any problems, then handed directly back to us at our destination port on La Digue despite the connection en route, without incident or any effort on our part. The transfers from the port to the hotels and, finally, to the airport were also perfect every time: pick-up was always punctual, and we did not have to do anything ourselves other than briefly check in with the relevant ‘Creole’ staff member (easily recognisable by their uniform) and present our voucher, or be at reception at the time advised in advance. We would gladly use them again at any time and would highly recommend them!